Pyrgos is one of the largest and most beautiful villages in Tinos. Located around 27 kilometres from Tinos Town, it is the artistic heart of the island and the centre of its centuries-old marble-carving tradition.

Marble appears everywhere, from carved doorways and decorative fanlights to fountains, churches and even street signs. Yet Pyrgos is not simply preserved for visitors. Its workshops and renowned art school remain active, while village life continues around the cafés beneath the plane tree in the central square.

Allow at least half a day to explore Pyrgos, or combine it with nearby Panormos and the beaches of Rochari, Agia Thalassa or Kavalourko for a full-day excursion.

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Pyrgos bus stop

What to do in Pyrgos

Explore the marble streets

Walking through Pyrgos is one of the best things to do in the village. Its narrow lanes wind between whitewashed houses, tiny courtyards, covered passageways, churches and workshops, with marble appearing almost everywhere.

Doorways are framed by carved lintels, houses are decorated with marble coats of arms and ornamental fanlights, and even fountains, benches, street signs and drain covers have been fashioned from stone.

Look above the doors as you walk. The marble panels found over many entrances feature flowers, birds, ships and geometric patterns. Originally intended to provide light and ventilation, they also became a way for craftspeople to display their skill and for families to personalise their homes.

Tinos has been an important centre of marble carving since at least the 18th century. Its craftspeople worked throughout Greece and overseas, contributing to churches, cemeteries, neoclassical mansions and the restoration of ancient monuments.

Tinos’s craftsmanship was added to UNESCO’s Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity in 2015. Importantly, this recognition applies to the knowledge and practice of marble craftsmanship, rather than to Pyrgos itself as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Visit the main square

The heart of Pyrgos is its beautiful marble-paved central square. A huge plane tree spreads its branches across the space, creating a cool, shady gathering place in summer.

Traditional cafés surround the square, with small marble tables arranged beneath the tree. This is the perfect place to order a Greek coffee, a glass of local raki or something sweet.

Pyrgos is particularly well known for galaktoboureko, a custard-filled filo pastry soaked in syrup. You will also find portokalopita, ekmek kataifi and other traditional Greek sweets.

Megalos Kafenes has been part of village life for more than a century. Historically, its customers included sailors, farmers, quarry workers and marble carvers who gathered to exchange news, discuss politics and observe village life.

The square becomes particularly busy around lunchtime, especially during July and August. Arrive in the morning if you want to photograph it before the tour groups and day-trippers arrive.

Visit the Museum of Marble Crafts

The Museum of Marble Crafts is the best place to understand why marble is so important to Tinos.

Located on the edge of Pyrgos, the museum explains the complete process of working with marble, from extracting enormous blocks at the quarry to cutting, transporting, polishing and carving the finished stone.

The collection includes original tools, mechanical equipment, drawings, clay models and examples of architectural and decorative stonework. Photographs and recordings explore the physically demanding lives of quarry workers and craftspeople, as well as the skills traditionally passed from one generation to the next.

The outdoor exhibition includes heavy machinery and lifting equipment once used in the island’s quarries.

It is a modern, well-designed museum and remains interesting even if you have never given much thought to marble before. Allow around an hour for your visit.

Yannoulis Chalepas Museum

See the home of Giannoulis Chalepas

Pyrgos was the birthplace of Giannoulis Chalepas, one of the most significant sculptors in modern Greek art.

Born in 1851 into a family of marble workers, Chalepas showed extraordinary artistic ability from an early age. However, his career was interrupted by severe mental illness, time spent in a psychiatric institution and years during which his mother reportedly discouraged him from sculpting.

His former family home is now the Giannoulis Chalepas Museum. It contains photographs, furniture, drawings, personal belongings, tools and examples of his work. His preserved workshop provides a particularly moving glimpse into his life.

Chalepas is best known for The Sleeping Girl, an exquisitely carved figure created for the tomb of Sofia Afentaki in the First Cemetery of Athens. The original remains in Athens, but the museum places the work within the broader and often tragic story of its creator.

Visit the Museum of Tinian Artists

Located beside the Chalepas house, the Museum of Tinian Artists displays works by sculptors and painters associated with the island.

Its collection includes pieces by Chalepas, Dimitrios Filippotis, Georgios Vitalis and other significant Tinian artists.

The museum is relatively small, but it works well in combination with the Chalepas Museum and the Museum of Marble Crafts. Together, the three museums explain how a remote Cycladic village became connected with important artistic and architectural projects throughout Greece.

See the Higher School of Fine Arts and Marble Craftsmanship

Pyrgos is not simply commemorating a lost art. Marble carving is still taught and practised in the village.

The local art school was established in 1955 to preserve traditional marble-working skills and prepare talented students for further study. In 2025, it was upgraded and renamed the Higher School of Fine Arts and Marble Craftsmanship.

The school is not generally an attraction that visitors can freely explore, but its presence is an important part of the character of Pyrgos. Students live and study in the village, helping to ensure that skills once handed down within families are not lost.

Look inside the churches

Pyrgos contains several churches and chapels decorated by local craftspeople.

The Church of Agios Nikolaos and the Church of Agios Dimitrios are among the most notable. Look for their carved entrances, decorative marble features, bell towers and intricate icon screens.

Even when the churches are closed, their exteriors are worth examining. In Pyrgos, religious buildings also showcase local workmanship, filled with details that would be unusually elaborate in a village without such a deep pool of skilled craftspeople.

As always in Greece, dress respectfully when entering a church and avoid visiting during a service unless you intend to participate quietly.

Hit the Hiking Trails

There are many excellent hiking trails in Tinos and the ones around Pyrgos are very popular. You can find detailed maps posted across from the Bus Stop on the main road.

marble throne Pyrgos museum

Visit the cemetery

A cemetery may seem an unusual inclusion in a village guide, but the cemetery of Pyrgos contains some impressive examples of local marble carving.

Its tombstones feature reliefs, inscriptions, crosses, flowers and symbolic motifs created by generations of Tinian craftspeople.

The cemetery should, of course, be visited quietly and respectfully. Rather than feeling macabre, it reveals how thoroughly marble is woven into local life, accompanying residents from the entrances of their homes to their final resting places.

Browse the workshops and shops

Several workshops, studios and galleries in Pyrgos sell sculptures, jewellery, decorative pieces and contemporary objects made from marble.

You will also find shops offering ceramics, textiles, honey, herbs and other products from Tinos.

Prices vary depending on whether an item is a simple souvenir or an original piece made by a trained artisan. If you are interested in a particular work, ask who created it and whether it was produced locally.

It is also worth remembering that marble becomes noticeably heavier after you have carried it around for an hour. Choose your souvenir with both your heart and your baggage allowance.

Eat in Pyrgos

The central square is the most atmospheric place to stop for coffee, sweets or a light meal. The cafés serve familiar Greek dishes alongside local cheeses, cured meats, omelettes and seasonal produce.

Try louza, the cured pork speciality of the Cyclades, as well as local graviera, kopanisti and Tinian sausage. Fourtalia, a thick omelette generally made with potatoes and sausage, is another local favourite.

Galaktoboureko remains the best-known sweet in Pyrgos, although you will also find orange pie, baklava, saragli and ekmek kataifi.

For a more substantial seafood meal, continue down to Panormos, where tavernas overlook the harbour and fishing boats.

Continue to Panormos

Panormos is approximately three kilometres from Pyrgos and makes a natural addition to a visit.

The settlement developed as a port for exporting marble and is now a relaxed seaside village with fishing boats, waterfront tavernas and views across the bay.

Offshore is the rocky islet of Planitis, crowned by a striking but abandoned lighthouse dating from the 19th century. The lighthouse is not connected to the mainland and cannot simply be walked to, despite what the landscape may tempt you to believe.

Panormos is a good place for a seafood lunch or an early evening drink after exploring Pyrgos.

Swim at the nearby beaches

Several beaches are around Panormos, including Rochari, Agia Thalassa and Kavalourko.

Rochari is one of the livelier choices, with seasonal facilities and a relaxed beach bar. Agia Thalassa offers sand, clear water and some natural shade, while Kavalourko is known for its smooth rocks and unusual coastal landscape.

The northern end of Tinos is exposed to the meltemi, so swimming conditions can change quickly. Always check the wind before choosing a beach. When the northerly wind is strong, beaches on the southern side of Tinos will usually be more comfortable.

Kolimvithra Beach

Staying in Pyrgos

Accommodation within Pyrgos is limited, which is part of the village’s appeal. Staying there provides a very different experience from visiting on a day trip. Once the buses and excursion groups leave, the alleys become quiet and the square returns to local life.

You will find restored village houses, apartments and small guesthouses rather than large hotels or resorts. Skaris Guesthouse is one of the better-known choices, offering self-contained traditional houses with kitchens and private outdoor spaces.

It is particularly suitable for travellers interested in art, architecture, walking and village atmosphere. It is less suitable for anyone seeking nightlife, resort facilities or easy access to a large selection of restaurants.

Parking is generally outside the historic centre, so check how far you will need to carry your luggage. 

Staying in Panormos

Panormos has a broader selection of holiday houses, apartments and villas, including properties with sea views and swimming pools.

It is a good alternative for visitors who want to stay near the water while remaining only a few minutes from Pyrgos.

The harbour has several places to eat, and beaches are within easy reach. However, the area is quiet at night and services can be limited outside the main tourist season.

A car is strongly recommended if you stay in Panormos, particularly if you want to visit different beaches, villages and restaurants.

Staying elsewhere in Exo Meria

The wider Exo Meria region includes accommodation near Rochari, Marlas, Mamados and Ysternia.

These properties often offer spectacular views, privacy and a strong sense of escape. The trade-off is that they can be isolated, with some reached by narrow or partly unsealed roads.

This option is best for travellers with a car who are comfortable staying away from shops and restaurants.

Staying in Tinos Town

Tinos Town has by far the island’s largest selection of hotels, restaurants, shops and transport connections.

It is the most convenient base if you are travelling without a car or staying on Tinos for only a few nights. Pyrgos can be reached by public bus, taxi or guided island tour.

Poseidonio Hotel is a great place for families and groups. Located right across from the small fishing harbour in Tinos Town it is surrounded by shops, cafes and tavernas and also Nama Boutique Hotel a few doors up. 

The disadvantage is that you will experience Pyrgos during its busiest daytime period and miss the quieter village atmosphere of the early morning and evening. 

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If you’re looking for a Greek island that still feels genuinely Greek, Leros should be high on your list. Nestled in the northern Dodecanese, it combines beautiful beaches, colourful harbour villages, fascinating wartime history and some of the best Italian architecture you’ll find anywhere in Greece.

Unlike some of its more famous neighbours, Leros has escaped mass tourism. Life moves at a slower pace here, with locals gathering in waterfront cafés, fishing boats returning to harbour each afternoon and visitors spending their days swimming, exploring castles or lingering over long lunches by the sea.

Compact and easy to explore, Leros is ideal whether you’re island hopping through the Dodecanese or looking for a relaxing holiday in its own right.

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Where is Leros?

Leros is part of the Dodecanese island group in the south-eastern Aegean Sea. It sits between Patmos and Kalymnos, close to the Turkish coast, making it an excellent base for island hopping.

Despite its relatively small size, Leros has several distinct towns and villages rather than one central hub. Lakki is the main ferry port; Agia Marina is the island’s picturesque capital; Platanos occupies the hillside between Agia Marina and Panteli; and Alinda is the most popular beach resort.

How to Get to Leros

Although Leros feels wonderfully unspoilt, getting there is surprisingly straightforward.

By air

Leros has its own airport, Leros Municipal Airport (LRS), with regular flights from Athens taking around an hour. During summer there are usually additional services, making it easy to connect with international flights arriving in the Greek capital.

The airport is only about 15 to 25 minutes from most accommodation on the island.

By ferry

Many visitors arrive by ferry, particularly if they’re island hopping through the Dodecanese.

Regular services connect Leros with:

Athens (Piraeus)
Patmos
Lipsi
Kalymnos
Kos
Rhodes
Symi
Agathonisi
Fourni
Ikaria

Ferries either arrive in Lakki, whose enormous natural harbour is the largest and safest in the Mediterranean, or Agia Marina, a small, pretty port town about 15 minutes north of Lakki.

Getting around

While buses and taxis connect the main towns, hiring a car is the easiest way to explore Leros. The island is only about 20 kilometres long, so nowhere is more than around 20 minutes away by road.

Scooters are also popular during summer, particularly for couples, while confident cyclists will enjoy the quiet roads outside the main villages.

A Brief History of Leros

It is worth mentioning the history of Leros as it is quite significant, and often a surprise to visitors.

Leros has played an important role in the Aegean for thousands of years, thanks largely to its strategic location and the deepest natural harbour in the Mediterranean.

According to Greek mythology, the island was the hunting ground of the goddess Artemis. It was inhabited from prehistoric times before becoming part of the Byzantine Empire and later falling under the control of the Knights of St John, who strengthened the Castle of Panteli that still overlooks the island today.

In 1522, Leros became part of the Ottoman Empire before being occupied by Italy in 1912. The Italians transformed Lakki, then known as Porto Lago, into a major naval base, constructing the distinctive Rationalist buildings that make the town unlike anywhere else in Greece.

Leros is perhaps best known for the Battle of Leros during the Second World War. Following Italy’s surrender in 1943, Allied and German forces fought one of the Mediterranean’s last major campaigns on the island. Many of the tunnels, gun emplacements and military buildings from that period can still be visited today.

Following the war, Leros officially became part of Greece in 1948 along with the rest of the Dodecanese, leaving behind a fascinating mix of ancient, medieval, Italian and modern Greek heritage.

Best Time to Visit Leros

Like much of the Dodecanese, Leros enjoys hot, dry summers and mild winters.

May and June are ideal if you enjoy sightseeing, hiking, and warm weather without peak-season crowds. The countryside is still green and wildflowers often linger into early summer.

July and August are the busiest months, with long sunny days, warm seas and lively waterfronts. Even then, Leros remains far less crowded than islands such as Mykonos or Santorini.

September is arguably the sweet spot. The sea is at its warmest, the summer crowds begin to thin and the weather remains excellent for swimming and exploring.

Where to stay in Leros 

While the main town of Leros is Lakki it is not necessarily where everyone stays, or even visits. The island is made up of several distinct villages, each with its own character. Fortunately, they’re all within a short drive of each other, so wherever you stay you’ll never be far from a beach, a taverna or one of the island’s attractions.

If it’s your first visit, Alinda, Agia Marina or Panteli are usually the best choices.

As our visit was for six nights, we wanted a fair bit of space and a well-equipped kitchen. We chose Asterias Apartments, high on the hill in Panteli, which has amazing views and easy parking at very affordable rates.

Otherwise, in Panteli we suggest Castelo Hotel for a full-service experience, or Panteli Beach studios and apartments, especially if you want to be right on the beachfront and avoid any stairs. 

For our next visit, we will likely try Alidian Bay Suites around at the end of Alinda Beach, which has a pool, sunbeds on the beach and is very peaceful and quiet. 

Hotel Catsello in Panteli.

Alidian Bay Suites Leros

Things to Do in Leros

Leros has enough beaches, historic sites and attractive villages to fill several days, but it never feels like an island where you need to race around ticking things off a list. The best approach is to explore one part of the island each day, with plenty of time for swimming and a long lunch.

Explore Lakki

Lakki looks unlike almost anywhere else in Greece. Developed by the Italians during the 1930s, the town was originally called Porto Lago and was designed around one of the largest natural harbours in the Mediterranean.

Its broad streets, curved façades and geometric public buildings are striking examples of Italian Rationalist architecture. Look out for the former cinema, the circular market and clock tower, the old customs building and the unusual Church of Agios Nikolaos.

Visit the War Museum

The War Museum, near Merikia outside Lakki, is housed inside a restored military tunnel built during the Italian occupation.

The displays include uniforms, photographs, maps, weapons and military equipment connected to the Battle of Leros and the island’s role during the Second World War. Larger exhibits are positioned outside the tunnel.

The Italians heavily fortified Leros and became the setting for a major battle between Allied and German forces in 1943. Even visitors without a particular interest in military history will find the museum worthwhile, especially as the tunnel itself is part of the story.

Wander around Agia Marina and Platanos

Agia Marina is one of the prettiest places on Leros, with colourful houses, neoclassical mansions and fishing boats gathered around its small harbour.

Explore the lanes behind the waterfront, browse the shops and stop for coffee beside the water. The town merges into Platanos as it climbs the hill, so it is easy to visit both at the same time.

Platanos feels more traditional, with whitewashed houses, old churches and narrow streets leading towards the castle. Together, Agia Marina and Platanos form the island’s main administrative and commercial centre, although they retain the atmosphere of two distinct villages.

Visit the Castle of Panteli

The Castle of Panteli, also known as the Castle of Panagia, stands high above Platanos and can be seen from much of the eastern side of Leros.

The existing fortress was developed and strengthened by the Knights of St John, although the site has much older Byzantine origins. Within the walls is the Church of Panagia and a small ecclesiastical museum displaying religious manuscripts, icons and vestments.

You can walk up from Platanos, but the climb is steep and very exposed in summer. There is also road access for those who would rather save their energy for the view.

From the castle, you can see Panteli, Agia Marina, the surrounding bays and several nearby islands. Visit late in the afternoon when the light is softer and the temperature more forgiving.

See the Panteli Windmills

A line of restored stone windmills runs along the ridge below the castle, creating one of the most recognisable views on Leros.

They are particularly atmospheric around sunset, when the light falls across Panteli and Vromolithos below. You can drive close to the windmills or include them in the walk between Platanos and the castle.

Spend an evening in Panteli.

Panteli is a former fishing village that has developed into one of Leros’s most popular dining and swimming spots.

The sheltered waterfront is lined with tavernas and cafés, with fishing boats moored alongside visiting yachts. It becomes busier during July and August, but still retains much of its traditional character.

Come for a late-afternoon swim, stay for dinner beside the water and watch the castle light up above the village.

Swim at Leros beaches.

Most Leros beaches are found in sheltered bays rather than along long, exposed stretches of coast. Many are a mixture of sand and pebbles, and water shoes can be useful.

• Alinda Beach is the longest and most developed beach on Leros. It has clear, generally calm water, tamarisk trees, sunbeds, water sports and plenty of nearby tavernas. It is convenient for families and visitors who prefer having everything close by.
• Panteli Beach is small but extremely popular due to its calm water and waterfront tavernas. It is best early in the morning, before the beach and surrounding restaurants fill up, and it can be quite lively at night.
• Vromolithos Beach, just beyond Panteli, is longer and usually quieter. It has views across to the small island of Agia Kyriaki and a mix of sand and pebbles.
• Dio Liskaria is a small cove north of Alinda with vivid blue water and a couple of lively beach bars. It attracts a younger crowd during summer and is one of the better choices for music and cocktails by the sea.
• Blefoutis Beach, in the north of the island, is sheltered and peaceful, with tamarisk trees and tavernas close to the water. It is a good option when beaches on the other side of the island are windy.
• Gourna Beach faces west and has darker sand and shallow water. It is particularly suitable for younger children, although the shallow seabed means you may need to walk some distance before the water becomes deep.
• Xirokampos Beach, in southern Leros, has calm water and views towards Kalymnos. The bay is excellent for swimming and snorkelling and is generally less busy than Alinda or Panteli.
• Agia Kioura Beach is a small, relatively isolated beach in the north. Combine a swim here with a visit to the nearby Church of Agia Kioura.

Like many islands, wind direction can make a significant difference on Leros, so ask a local which side of the island is most sheltered that day. If the famous Meltemi wind is blowing, then you will want to stay away from anywhere exposed to the North.

Visit the Bellinis Tower Museum

Bellinis Tower, also known as Beleni Tower, is a handsome stone mansion near Alinda.

It houses the Historical and Folklore Museum of Leros, with exhibits covering local customs, traditional clothing, household objects and different periods of the island’s history. The building also contains a library, an art space, and a press collection, while concerts and cultural events are sometimes held in its gardens during summer.

It is worth visiting before or after spending time at Alinda Beach.

Visit Agios Isidoros

The tiny Church of Agios Isidoros is one of the most photographed places on Leros.

It sits on a rocky islet near Kokkali and is connected to the shore by a narrow stone causeway. The church is particularly lovely in the late afternoon and is also a popular location for weddings.

There is not a great deal to do once you arrive, but the coastal setting makes it an easy and worthwhile stop while exploring the western side of the island.

See the Church of Agia Kioura

Agia Kioura, near Partheni, looks like a simple island chapel but has a remarkable modern history.

During Greece’s military dictatorship, political prisoners held on Leros painted a series of religious murals inside the church. The figures were reportedly inspired by fellow prisoners and residents, giving the paintings a distinctive human quality.

The murals are now protected works of cultural importance and make this one of the island’s most moving historic sites.

Visit Panagia Kavouradena

Near Xirokampos, the small Church of Panagia Kavouradena is built into the rocks directly above the sea.

According to local tradition, a fisherman searching for crabs discovered an icon of the Virgin Mary in a crack between the rocks. The chapel was later created at the site.

It is a beautiful, peaceful location and easy to combine with a swim or lunch in Xirokampos.

Go diving

Leros is considered one of Greece’s most interesting diving destinations due to the aircraft, ships and military remains found in the surrounding waters.

Local diving centres offer introductory dives, certification courses and guided trips for experienced divers. Some sites are accessible from the shore, while others require a boat.

The combination of clear water, rocky reefs and Second World War wrecks makes diving here quite different from the usual Greek island experience.

Take a boat trip

Small excursion boats and private charters operate around Leros and to nearby islands during summer.

Popular destinations include Lipsi, Arki and the small islets surrounding Leros. Boat trips are also an excellent way to reach isolated coves that are difficult or impossible to access by road.

Schedules and routes vary according to the season and weather, so check locally after arriving rather than planning around a particular excursion months in advance.

Go for dinner on Archangelos Island.

Just off the north coast of Leros lies the tiny islet of Archangelos, an uninhabited nature reserve known for its crystal-clear water, dramatic cliffs and the striking white Chapel of Archangel Michael.

Many excursions include time for swimming in the crystal-clear waters before stopping at Stigma, a much-loved waterfront taverna that has become a destination in its own right. With just a handful of tables perched above the sea, it’s renowned for its fresh seafood, traditional Greek dishes and unforgettable setting.

Archangelos is also a protected nature reserve and home to one of the Aegean’s largest breeding colonies of Eleonora’s Falcons, which nest on the island each summer. While parts of the island are protected during the breeding season, visitors can still admire its rugged beauty from the water.

Whether you come for the swimming, the spectacular scenery or a memorable meal at Stigma, a trip to Archangelos is one of the highlights of a visit to Leros.

Attend a local festival.

Leros hosts religious festivals, cultural events, concerts and food celebrations throughout summer.

Important events include the Feast of Agia Marina on 17 July, celebrations at the Castle of Panagia on 15 August, the Feast of Agios Fanourios in Xirokampos on 27 August and the Fisherman’s Festival in Panteli during September.

There are also wine, food and traditional music events held in different villages throughout July and August. Dates can change, so look for posters around the island or ask your accommodation host what is happening during your stay.

Image courtesy: Hydrovius Dive Centre

The Castle of Panteli

Leros War Museum

Leros war cemetery

Stigma Taverna, Archangelos Island

Suggested Leros Itinerary

Whether you’re visiting as part of a Dodecanese island-hopping adventure or enjoying a longer stay, Leros is easy to explore thanks to its compact size. Here’s how we’d spend one, three or five days on the island.

One Day in Leros

Start your morning in Agia Marina, strolling along the harbour before exploring the narrow streets of Platanos. Continue up to the Castle of Panteli and the nearby windmills for some of the island’s best views.

Head down to Panteli for a leisurely seafood lunch, then spend the afternoon swimming at Panteli or Vromolithos Beach. Finish the day with dinner by the waterfront as the sun sets over the harbour.

Three Days in Leros

With three days, you can experience the island’s highlights at a more relaxed pace.

Day One: Explore Agia Marina, Platanos, Panteli, the castle and windmills.

Day Two: Visit Lakki, the War Museum and Bellinis Tower, then relax at Alinda Beach before dinner in Agia Marina.

Day Three: Drive south to Xirokampos and Panagia Kavouradena, stopping for swims at some of the island’s quieter beaches along the way.

Five Days in Leros

Five days lets you experience the slower rhythm of island life.

Use the extra time to:

• Visit more secluded beaches such as Blefoutis, Gourna or Agia Kioura.
• Take a boat trip to nearby Lipsi or one of the surrounding islets.
• Go diving or snorkelling.
• Go over to Stigma Taverna for dinner on Archanegelos island.
• Walk some of the island’s coastal trails.
• Enjoy long lunches and relaxed evenings at different waterfront tavernas.

One of the joys of Leros is that there’s no need to rush. Leave plenty of time to simply wander, swim and soak up the authentic atmosphere that makes the island such a rewarding destination.

Dining in Leros

There are a number of really top-notch cafes and tavernas on Leros, but not as many as on some islands, so booking in summer may need to be done in advance.

Standouts are Pirofani in Panteli, Mylos by the Sea in Agia Marina and Serza near Lakki. 

There are several excellent places in Agia Marina for a cheap and cheerful meal or coffee. Navarone is very close to the port so a popular coffee spot before a ferry and it turns into a very lively bar and restaurant at night. 

Serza

Pirofani

Navarone

Frequently Asked Questions

Is Leros worth visiting?

Absolutely. Leros offers a wonderful mix of beautiful beaches, picturesque villages, fascinating history and excellent food, all without the crowds found on many of Greece’s more famous islands.

How many days do you need in Leros?

Three to five days is ideal. This gives you enough time to explore the island’s villages, relax on its beaches and take a boat trip or two.

Does Leros have an airport?

Yes. Leros Municipal Airport (LRS) has regular flights from Athens throughout the year, with more services operating during the summer months.

Do I need a car on Leros?

A hire car is recommended, especially if you want to explore the island’s quieter beaches and villages. However, if you’re staying in Alinda, Agia Marina or Panteli, it’s easy to get around by taxi or local bus for a few days.

What is the best area to stay in Leros?

For most visitors, Alinda is the best all-round choice thanks to its long beach, good range of accommodation and central location. Agia Marina is ideal if you enjoy staying in a lively harbour town, while Panteli is perfect for couples looking for a romantic waterfront setting.

What are the best beaches on Leros?

Some of the island’s most popular beaches include Alinda, Panteli, Vromolithos, Xirokampos, Blefoutis, Gourna and Dio Liskaria. Each offers something different, from organised beach clubs to peaceful coves ideal for snorkelling.

Can you island hop from Leros?

Yes. Leros is one of the best bases in the Dodecanese for island hopping, with regular ferry services to Patmos, Lipsi, Kalymnos, Kos, Agathonisi, Arki and Rhodes.

When is the best time to visit Leros?

May, June and September are generally considered the best months, offering warm weather, pleasant sea temperatures and fewer visitors than the peak summer season.

Is Leros suitable for families?

Yes. The island’s calm beaches, short driving distances and relaxed atmosphere make it an excellent destination for families with children of all ages.

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Milos is an incredible and quite unique island that has gained in popularity as word gets out about its amazing lunar landscapes, technicoloured beaches and delicious food scene. It’s a lot quieter than Santorini but there is still a lot to see and do and you would not be disappointed with several days or even a month on this island. It’s not small and you will need a car but driving is easy. Working out where to stay on Milos will be your biggest challenge but this should help you find the best accommodation on Milos for you.

 PLANNING A TRIP TO GREECE?

Whether you’ve been before or it’s your first time it can be hard to process all the information out there. Be sure to check out our complete Planning Guide as well as our FREE 13-page downloadable itinerary.

If you are feeling really overwhelmed you might like a Trip Consultation perhaps!?

And come join our private Facebook Group where you can ask questions and get advice from real travellers!

There are no big chain hotels or all-inclusive hotels on Milos. Rather it has a number of small family-run hotels and some incredibly unique accommodation like converted fishing huts.

Choosing your Milos hotel largely comes down to personal preference. Some people will prefer to stay near the port in Adamas which is also very central whilst others might prefer the more upmarket boutique feel of Pollonia or one of the tiny fishing or beach villages.

Either way, you really can’t go wrong – it’s all marvellous! 

Further reading : Things to do on Milos

Are you planning a last-minute trip to Milos?

Milos is certainly no longer a secret but luckily development is slow, making places to stay in Milos limited. Book early and don’t miss out, which many people do!

Top Tours in Milos

• Full daily sailing tour to Kleftiko with Lunch and Snorkeling (best-rated!)
• Geology and Volcano Half-Day tour
• Kayaking Tour to Tsigardo and Gerakas Beaches
• Half-Day Morning cruise to Kleftiko

Top Places to Stay in Milos

• Heliotropio Studios and Apartments – Pollonia
• Ostria Vento – Pollonia
• Captain Zeppos – Pollonia
• Delmar Suites – Pollonia
• Hotel Dionysis – Adamas
• Medousa – Adamas
• Arethousa – Plaka
• Psaravolada Hotel – Southern beaches
• Artemis Deluxe Rooms – Southern Beaches

The main towns of Milos

Adamas

Adamas is the main town of Milos and the port where the ferries and cruise ships dock, although it is not a substantial port.

You will find everything here that most port towns have – souvenir shops, backpacker hostels, cafes, tour desks, and more. It’s very central to everything on the island and has a good mix of cultural activities as well as some nightlife.

Being the port town Adamas is also where the majority of the boat cruises leave from especially the full day ones. There’s also an excellent kayaking tour and a Geology and Volcano tour that takes half a day.

recommended hotels in Adamas

Budget travellers will love Thalasittra Village Hotel with its lovely garden and close proximity to everything. A great mid-range hotel is  The White Suites which is again centrally located and means you don’t need a car for much of your stay. Some rooms have a jacuzzi and terrace too!

If you’re after a bit of luxury then Miland Suites is in the hills behind Adamas but have gorgeous suites with amazing views over the island. They have a great pool and put on an incredible breakfast with food grown on the property. 

Lagada Beach Hotel is a good choice for people who dont want to walk much nor tackle any stairs as it is right next to the town on the beach. 

For groups, there is a great apartment called White Rock which has 3 bedrooms, is beautifully appointed and an easy stroll to everything.

Lagada Beach Hotel

Plaka

Plaka is likely named after the historic district of Athens with the same name which has fairly ambiguous heritage still unclear today. It is the oldest part of Milos and up high in the hill behind Adamas where it was once more protected from pirates and other enemies.

Today it is a quaint village with the usual paved narrow alleyways filled with cafes, tavernas, and shops some of which have excellent arts and crafts including replica/souvenir ‘Venus de Milo’ after the famous statue which now lives in the Louvre.

There are amazing views to be had from several vantage points especially the Kastro ( castle) which is worth the steep, wobbly climb. Accommodation choices are limited but here you will experience a quite authentic stay that is very Greek and very Milonean. 

recommended hotels in Plaka 

For a very special and completely unique experience book Drougas Windmill , which has wonderful views from the terrace, especially at sunrise.

Halara Studios are also exceptional with beautifully appointed rooms and amenities and sweeping views over the sea. Chaido Rooms are a great budget option and are simple, clean and very affordable.

Pollonia

Pollonia is a charming seaside town at the very north-east tip of the island. It is full of small seafood restaurants, cafes and traditional tavernas as well as a good winery, a small fishing port, and the ferry that takes you over to neighbouring Kimolos island.

There are a number of small family-run hotels spread out along the bay and a couple of high-end boutique hotels. It is quite popular with European families due to the safe, calm beach and has a lively yet family-friendly atmosphere at night in summer.

Despite it being a fair way from many of the popular sites it is an easy drive in and out each day and quite close to iconic Sarakiniko.

You will also have to drive past the incredible pastry/bakery at the edge of town and I defy you not to go back for the chocolate pie every day. We spent 5 days in Pollonia on our last visit and would choose it for our next as well. It has a lively vibe at night but is a little more upmarket than Adamas which is popular with backpackers.

One of the best things you can do from Pollonia is a day tour to the neighbouring islands of Kimolos and Poliegos. You can either catch the passenger/car ferry over and explore Kimolos yourself or join a private boat tour and explore with a local.

Recommended hotels in Pollonia 

A great mid-range hotel is Delmar apartments and Suites which is located right at the end of the road into town across from the waterfront tavernas. Lovely hotel and perfect, central location.

A little further along the waterfront road is Unique Milos Suites where we stayed – their beachfront beanbags got a lot of use! or around the cove to the east is Captain Zeppos Apartments a gorgeous boutique hotel right on the water.

White Pebble Suites opened in 2021 and are a project launched by 3 Australian women who fell in love with Milos. Their seafront suites are stunning and are already considered some of the best on the island.

 Ostria Vento is a lovely budget option in a cute little bougainvillea festooned Cycladic house just 5 minutes walk from the centre of the village. 

Unique Milos Suites

White Pebble Suites

The fishing villages of Milos – Klima, Mandrakia and Firopotomas

One of the most endearing attractions on Milos is its quaint little fishing villages with their unique ‘Syrma’ or fisherman’s huts, most of which are still in use today.

These colourful structures serve as storage for the fisherman and easy access to the sea at ground level with his sleeping quarters up above.

Some of these huts are now available for rent and are some of the most unique places to stay in Greece!

The roads down to the villages are sealed but they are narrow so drive carefully. The road to Klima is especially tricky but there is a nice Taverna and carpark at the bottom as a reward. Klima has the most huts and is fairly protected from onshore winds.

You really can’t miss these villages when visiting Milos and staying at one is a very unique way to holiday.

Accommodation recommendations in the Milos fishing villages

Blue Sea House is one of our favourite Syrma and is at the end of the row in Klima. It can sleep 6 people in 4 beds and two sofa beds and is wonderfully appointed with great attention to detail.

Vasealis and Seaf  Syrma is also very cute and can sleep 4 with a King bed in the bedroom and a sofa bed in the living room. Its been recently refurbished and has lovely views from the terrace out over the sea.

In Mandrakia, SeaScape is a lovely little white house that sits above the Fishing Huts below and is right next door to the only taverna ( which is excellent), Medusa. Seashell is just a few meters away and can sleep 4. Book both and take over the village!

In Firopotamos Vilos Suites are right on the lovely, calm beach and are the most stylish in that bay. Only around 10 or 12 people stay in Firopotomas of a night, even in summer! 

Vilos Suites Firopotamos

Klima

Mandrakia

Sarakiniko Beach Hotels 

One of the most extraordinary beaches in Europe is found on Milos called Sarakiniko. It’s incredible white rock formations are often describe as ‘lunar’ or ‘other-worldy’ and it’s a very unique beach to visit.

There is not much sand at this beach and it is pretty exposed to the wind but it’s that wind that has formed the amazing rocks shapes over millions of years. This is somewhere you come to take photos and explore the caves rather than swim although that is possible as well.

It is located in an isolated spot on the northern part of the island, with nothing of interest close by so most people visit by car.

The public bus also stops on the road and it’s a 10-minute walk down to the beach.

If you do want to stay close by there are only a few options but they are both very good.

Recommended hotels for Sarakiniko Beach in Milos

Sarakiniko Rooms have comfy, clean, affordable rooms and most have great sea views.

For a luxury option check out Cave Suites Milos  – stunning suites with incredible views of the area and many rooms have private pools.

Sarakiniko Beach

Milos Southern Beaches

The best beaches on Milos are on the south of the island as they are generally protected from the wind, which can be particularly strong in summer. The beaches are also very distinctive and quite colourful with all the colours of the rainbow found in the volcanic cliffs and the pebbles.

There is a natural thermal spring at Paleochora which is a well-organized beach with many sunbeds and umbrellas for hire and several good tavernas up the top. There is a big car park and it is very easy to access.

Provatas is midway along the southern coast and is where some of the day cruise boats depart for Kleftiko. It is a bit more isolated and only a few tavernas but a very pretty spot.

Unless you plan on literally flopping and dropping you will need a car if staying at the southern beaches but you may not need one every day. There is also a public bus that services the busier spots.

Recommended hotels in the southern beaches of Milos

Psaravolada Hotel is a beautiful new small resort with suites and rooms looking over the sea. It has an excellent restaurant and is good value given its amenities.

Further along at Paliochori Artemis deluxe rooms is a stunning boutique hotel with luxe suites, some with private pools. It has a pool bar and beach bar and truly rivals anything you would find on Mykonos.

Artemis Deluxe Rooms

Whether you stay in a hotel in Milos, a windmill, traditional house or Fisherman’s Hut I guarantee you are in for a wonderful holiday. Get in quick before the crowds from Santorini decide to detour to this magnificent Cycladic Island and don’t forget the other gems in the area such as Paros and Naxos too!

Further reading: Unique places to stay in Greece

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