Pyrgos is one of the largest and most beautiful villages in Tinos. Located around 27 kilometres from Tinos Town, it is the artistic heart of the island and the centre of its centuries-old marble-carving tradition.

Marble appears everywhere, from carved doorways and decorative fanlights to fountains, churches and even street signs. Yet Pyrgos is not simply preserved for visitors. Its workshops and renowned art school remain active, while village life continues around the cafés beneath the plane tree in the central square.

Allow at least half a day to explore Pyrgos, or combine it with nearby Panormos and the beaches of Rochari, Agia Thalassa or Kavalourko for a full-day excursion.

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Pyrgos bus stop

What to do in Pyrgos

Explore the marble streets

Walking through Pyrgos is one of the best things to do in the village. Its narrow lanes wind between whitewashed houses, tiny courtyards, covered passageways, churches and workshops, with marble appearing almost everywhere.

Doorways are framed by carved lintels, houses are decorated with marble coats of arms and ornamental fanlights, and even fountains, benches, street signs and drain covers have been fashioned from stone.

Look above the doors as you walk. The marble panels found over many entrances feature flowers, birds, ships and geometric patterns. Originally intended to provide light and ventilation, they also became a way for craftspeople to display their skill and for families to personalise their homes.

Tinos has been an important centre of marble carving since at least the 18th century. Its craftspeople worked throughout Greece and overseas, contributing to churches, cemeteries, neoclassical mansions and the restoration of ancient monuments.

Tinos’s craftsmanship was added to UNESCO’s Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity in 2015. Importantly, this recognition applies to the knowledge and practice of marble craftsmanship, rather than to Pyrgos itself as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Visit the main square

The heart of Pyrgos is its beautiful marble-paved central square. A huge plane tree spreads its branches across the space, creating a cool, shady gathering place in summer.

Traditional cafés surround the square, with small marble tables arranged beneath the tree. This is the perfect place to order a Greek coffee, a glass of local raki or something sweet.

Pyrgos is particularly well known for galaktoboureko, a custard-filled filo pastry soaked in syrup. You will also find portokalopita, ekmek kataifi and other traditional Greek sweets.

Megalos Kafenes has been part of village life for more than a century. Historically, its customers included sailors, farmers, quarry workers and marble carvers who gathered to exchange news, discuss politics and observe village life.

The square becomes particularly busy around lunchtime, especially during July and August. Arrive in the morning if you want to photograph it before the tour groups and day-trippers arrive.

Visit the Museum of Marble Crafts

The Museum of Marble Crafts is the best place to understand why marble is so important to Tinos.

Located on the edge of Pyrgos, the museum explains the complete process of working with marble, from extracting enormous blocks at the quarry to cutting, transporting, polishing and carving the finished stone.

The collection includes original tools, mechanical equipment, drawings, clay models and examples of architectural and decorative stonework. Photographs and recordings explore the physically demanding lives of quarry workers and craftspeople, as well as the skills traditionally passed from one generation to the next.

The outdoor exhibition includes heavy machinery and lifting equipment once used in the island’s quarries.

It is a modern, well-designed museum and remains interesting even if you have never given much thought to marble before. Allow around an hour for your visit.

Yannoulis Chalepas Museum

See the home of Giannoulis Chalepas

Pyrgos was the birthplace of Giannoulis Chalepas, one of the most significant sculptors in modern Greek art.

Born in 1851 into a family of marble workers, Chalepas showed extraordinary artistic ability from an early age. However, his career was interrupted by severe mental illness, time spent in a psychiatric institution and years during which his mother reportedly discouraged him from sculpting.

His former family home is now the Giannoulis Chalepas Museum. It contains photographs, furniture, drawings, personal belongings, tools and examples of his work. His preserved workshop provides a particularly moving glimpse into his life.

Chalepas is best known for The Sleeping Girl, an exquisitely carved figure created for the tomb of Sofia Afentaki in the First Cemetery of Athens. The original remains in Athens, but the museum places the work within the broader and often tragic story of its creator.

Visit the Museum of Tinian Artists

Located beside the Chalepas house, the Museum of Tinian Artists displays works by sculptors and painters associated with the island.

Its collection includes pieces by Chalepas, Dimitrios Filippotis, Georgios Vitalis and other significant Tinian artists.

The museum is relatively small, but it works well in combination with the Chalepas Museum and the Museum of Marble Crafts. Together, the three museums explain how a remote Cycladic village became connected with important artistic and architectural projects throughout Greece.

See the Higher School of Fine Arts and Marble Craftsmanship

Pyrgos is not simply commemorating a lost art. Marble carving is still taught and practised in the village.

The local art school was established in 1955 to preserve traditional marble-working skills and prepare talented students for further study. In 2025, it was upgraded and renamed the Higher School of Fine Arts and Marble Craftsmanship.

The school is not generally an attraction that visitors can freely explore, but its presence is an important part of the character of Pyrgos. Students live and study in the village, helping to ensure that skills once handed down within families are not lost.

Look inside the churches

Pyrgos contains several churches and chapels decorated by local craftspeople.

The Church of Agios Nikolaos and the Church of Agios Dimitrios are among the most notable. Look for their carved entrances, decorative marble features, bell towers and intricate icon screens.

Even when the churches are closed, their exteriors are worth examining. In Pyrgos, religious buildings also showcase local workmanship, filled with details that would be unusually elaborate in a village without such a deep pool of skilled craftspeople.

As always in Greece, dress respectfully when entering a church and avoid visiting during a service unless you intend to participate quietly.

Hit the Hiking Trails

There are many excellent hiking trails in Tinos and the ones around Pyrgos are very popular. You can find detailed maps posted across from the Bus Stop on the main road.

marble throne Pyrgos museum

Visit the cemetery

A cemetery may seem an unusual inclusion in a village guide, but the cemetery of Pyrgos contains some impressive examples of local marble carving.

Its tombstones feature reliefs, inscriptions, crosses, flowers and symbolic motifs created by generations of Tinian craftspeople.

The cemetery should, of course, be visited quietly and respectfully. Rather than feeling macabre, it reveals how thoroughly marble is woven into local life, accompanying residents from the entrances of their homes to their final resting places.

Browse the workshops and shops

Several workshops, studios and galleries in Pyrgos sell sculptures, jewellery, decorative pieces and contemporary objects made from marble.

You will also find shops offering ceramics, textiles, honey, herbs and other products from Tinos.

Prices vary depending on whether an item is a simple souvenir or an original piece made by a trained artisan. If you are interested in a particular work, ask who created it and whether it was produced locally.

It is also worth remembering that marble becomes noticeably heavier after you have carried it around for an hour. Choose your souvenir with both your heart and your baggage allowance.

Eat in Pyrgos

The central square is the most atmospheric place to stop for coffee, sweets or a light meal. The cafés serve familiar Greek dishes alongside local cheeses, cured meats, omelettes and seasonal produce.

Try louza, the cured pork speciality of the Cyclades, as well as local graviera, kopanisti and Tinian sausage. Fourtalia, a thick omelette generally made with potatoes and sausage, is another local favourite.

Galaktoboureko remains the best-known sweet in Pyrgos, although you will also find orange pie, baklava, saragli and ekmek kataifi.

For a more substantial seafood meal, continue down to Panormos, where tavernas overlook the harbour and fishing boats.

Continue to Panormos

Panormos is approximately three kilometres from Pyrgos and makes a natural addition to a visit.

The settlement developed as a port for exporting marble and is now a relaxed seaside village with fishing boats, waterfront tavernas and views across the bay.

Offshore is the rocky islet of Planitis, crowned by a striking but abandoned lighthouse dating from the 19th century. The lighthouse is not connected to the mainland and cannot simply be walked to, despite what the landscape may tempt you to believe.

Panormos is a good place for a seafood lunch or an early evening drink after exploring Pyrgos.

Swim at the nearby beaches

Several beaches are around Panormos, including Rochari, Agia Thalassa and Kavalourko.

Rochari is one of the livelier choices, with seasonal facilities and a relaxed beach bar. Agia Thalassa offers sand, clear water and some natural shade, while Kavalourko is known for its smooth rocks and unusual coastal landscape.

The northern end of Tinos is exposed to the meltemi, so swimming conditions can change quickly. Always check the wind before choosing a beach. When the northerly wind is strong, beaches on the southern side of Tinos will usually be more comfortable.

Kolimvithra Beach

Staying in Pyrgos

Accommodation within Pyrgos is limited, which is part of the village’s appeal. Staying there provides a very different experience from visiting on a day trip. Once the buses and excursion groups leave, the alleys become quiet and the square returns to local life.

You will find restored village houses, apartments and small guesthouses rather than large hotels or resorts. Skaris Guesthouse is one of the better-known choices, offering self-contained traditional houses with kitchens and private outdoor spaces.

It is particularly suitable for travellers interested in art, architecture, walking and village atmosphere. It is less suitable for anyone seeking nightlife, resort facilities or easy access to a large selection of restaurants.

Parking is generally outside the historic centre, so check how far you will need to carry your luggage. 

Staying in Panormos

Panormos has a broader selection of holiday houses, apartments and villas, including properties with sea views and swimming pools.

It is a good alternative for visitors who want to stay near the water while remaining only a few minutes from Pyrgos.

The harbour has several places to eat, and beaches are within easy reach. However, the area is quiet at night and services can be limited outside the main tourist season.

A car is strongly recommended if you stay in Panormos, particularly if you want to visit different beaches, villages and restaurants.

Staying elsewhere in Exo Meria

The wider Exo Meria region includes accommodation near Rochari, Marlas, Mamados and Ysternia.

These properties often offer spectacular views, privacy and a strong sense of escape. The trade-off is that they can be isolated, with some reached by narrow or partly unsealed roads.

This option is best for travellers with a car who are comfortable staying away from shops and restaurants.

Staying in Tinos Town

Tinos Town has by far the island’s largest selection of hotels, restaurants, shops and transport connections.

It is the most convenient base if you are travelling without a car or staying on Tinos for only a few nights. Pyrgos can be reached by public bus, taxi or guided island tour.

Poseidonio Hotel is a great place for families and groups. Located right across from the small fishing harbour in Tinos Town it is surrounded by shops, cafes and tavernas and also Nama Boutique Hotel a few doors up. 

The disadvantage is that you will experience Pyrgos during its busiest daytime period and miss the quieter village atmosphere of the early morning and evening. 

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If you’re looking for a Greek island that still feels genuinely Greek, Leros should be high on your list. Nestled in the northern Dodecanese, it combines beautiful beaches, colourful harbour villages, fascinating wartime history and some of the best Italian architecture you’ll find anywhere in Greece.

Unlike some of its more famous neighbours, Leros has escaped mass tourism. Life moves at a slower pace here, with locals gathering in waterfront cafés, fishing boats returning to harbour each afternoon and visitors spending their days swimming, exploring castles or lingering over long lunches by the sea.

Compact and easy to explore, Leros is ideal whether you’re island hopping through the Dodecanese or looking for a relaxing holiday in its own right.

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Where is Leros?

Leros is part of the Dodecanese island group in the south-eastern Aegean Sea. It sits between Patmos and Kalymnos, close to the Turkish coast, making it an excellent base for island hopping.

Despite its relatively small size, Leros has several distinct towns and villages rather than one central hub. Lakki is the main ferry port; Agia Marina is the island’s picturesque capital; Platanos occupies the hillside between Agia Marina and Panteli; and Alinda is the most popular beach resort.

How to Get to Leros

Although Leros feels wonderfully unspoilt, getting there is surprisingly straightforward.

By air

Leros has its own airport, Leros Municipal Airport (LRS), with regular flights from Athens taking around an hour. During summer there are usually additional services, making it easy to connect with international flights arriving in the Greek capital.

The airport is only about 15 to 25 minutes from most accommodation on the island.

By ferry

Many visitors arrive by ferry, particularly if they’re island hopping through the Dodecanese.

Regular services connect Leros with:

Athens (Piraeus)
Patmos
Lipsi
Kalymnos
Kos
Rhodes
Symi
Agathonisi
Fourni
Ikaria

Ferries either arrive in Lakki, whose enormous natural harbour is the largest and safest in the Mediterranean, or Agia Marina, a small, pretty port town about 15 minutes north of Lakki.

Getting around

While buses and taxis connect the main towns, hiring a car is the easiest way to explore Leros. The island is only about 20 kilometres long, so nowhere is more than around 20 minutes away by road.

Scooters are also popular during summer, particularly for couples, while confident cyclists will enjoy the quiet roads outside the main villages.

A Brief History of Leros

It is worth mentioning the history of Leros as it is quite significant, and often a surprise to visitors.

Leros has played an important role in the Aegean for thousands of years, thanks largely to its strategic location and the deepest natural harbour in the Mediterranean.

According to Greek mythology, the island was the hunting ground of the goddess Artemis. It was inhabited from prehistoric times before becoming part of the Byzantine Empire and later falling under the control of the Knights of St John, who strengthened the Castle of Panteli that still overlooks the island today.

In 1522, Leros became part of the Ottoman Empire before being occupied by Italy in 1912. The Italians transformed Lakki, then known as Porto Lago, into a major naval base, constructing the distinctive Rationalist buildings that make the town unlike anywhere else in Greece.

Leros is perhaps best known for the Battle of Leros during the Second World War. Following Italy’s surrender in 1943, Allied and German forces fought one of the Mediterranean’s last major campaigns on the island. Many of the tunnels, gun emplacements and military buildings from that period can still be visited today.

Following the war, Leros officially became part of Greece in 1948 along with the rest of the Dodecanese, leaving behind a fascinating mix of ancient, medieval, Italian and modern Greek heritage.

Best Time to Visit Leros

Like much of the Dodecanese, Leros enjoys hot, dry summers and mild winters.

May and June are ideal if you enjoy sightseeing, hiking, and warm weather without peak-season crowds. The countryside is still green and wildflowers often linger into early summer.

July and August are the busiest months, with long sunny days, warm seas and lively waterfronts. Even then, Leros remains far less crowded than islands such as Mykonos or Santorini.

September is arguably the sweet spot. The sea is at its warmest, the summer crowds begin to thin and the weather remains excellent for swimming and exploring.

Where to stay in Leros 

While the main town of Leros is Lakki it is not necessarily where everyone stays, or even visits. The island is made up of several distinct villages, each with its own character. Fortunately, they’re all within a short drive of each other, so wherever you stay you’ll never be far from a beach, a taverna or one of the island’s attractions.

If it’s your first visit, Alinda, Agia Marina or Panteli are usually the best choices.

As our visit was for six nights, we wanted a fair bit of space and a well-equipped kitchen. We chose Asterias Apartments, high on the hill in Panteli, which has amazing views and easy parking at very affordable rates.

Otherwise, in Panteli we suggest Castelo Hotel for a full-service experience, or Panteli Beach studios and apartments, especially if you want to be right on the beachfront and avoid any stairs. 

For our next visit, we will likely try Alidian Bay Suites around at the end of Alinda Beach, which has a pool, sunbeds on the beach and is very peaceful and quiet. 

Hotel Catsello in Panteli.

Alidian Bay Suites Leros

Things to Do in Leros

Leros has enough beaches, historic sites and attractive villages to fill several days, but it never feels like an island where you need to race around ticking things off a list. The best approach is to explore one part of the island each day, with plenty of time for swimming and a long lunch.

Explore Lakki

Lakki looks unlike almost anywhere else in Greece. Developed by the Italians during the 1930s, the town was originally called Porto Lago and was designed around one of the largest natural harbours in the Mediterranean.

Its broad streets, curved façades and geometric public buildings are striking examples of Italian Rationalist architecture. Look out for the former cinema, the circular market and clock tower, the old customs building and the unusual Church of Agios Nikolaos.

Visit the War Museum

The War Museum, near Merikia outside Lakki, is housed inside a restored military tunnel built during the Italian occupation.

The displays include uniforms, photographs, maps, weapons and military equipment connected to the Battle of Leros and the island’s role during the Second World War. Larger exhibits are positioned outside the tunnel.

The Italians heavily fortified Leros and became the setting for a major battle between Allied and German forces in 1943. Even visitors without a particular interest in military history will find the museum worthwhile, especially as the tunnel itself is part of the story.

Wander around Agia Marina and Platanos

Agia Marina is one of the prettiest places on Leros, with colourful houses, neoclassical mansions and fishing boats gathered around its small harbour.

Explore the lanes behind the waterfront, browse the shops and stop for coffee beside the water. The town merges into Platanos as it climbs the hill, so it is easy to visit both at the same time.

Platanos feels more traditional, with whitewashed houses, old churches and narrow streets leading towards the castle. Together, Agia Marina and Platanos form the island’s main administrative and commercial centre, although they retain the atmosphere of two distinct villages.

Visit the Castle of Panteli

The Castle of Panteli, also known as the Castle of Panagia, stands high above Platanos and can be seen from much of the eastern side of Leros.

The existing fortress was developed and strengthened by the Knights of St John, although the site has much older Byzantine origins. Within the walls is the Church of Panagia and a small ecclesiastical museum displaying religious manuscripts, icons and vestments.

You can walk up from Platanos, but the climb is steep and very exposed in summer. There is also road access for those who would rather save their energy for the view.

From the castle, you can see Panteli, Agia Marina, the surrounding bays and several nearby islands. Visit late in the afternoon when the light is softer and the temperature more forgiving.

See the Panteli Windmills

A line of restored stone windmills runs along the ridge below the castle, creating one of the most recognisable views on Leros.

They are particularly atmospheric around sunset, when the light falls across Panteli and Vromolithos below. You can drive close to the windmills or include them in the walk between Platanos and the castle.

Spend an evening in Panteli.

Panteli is a former fishing village that has developed into one of Leros’s most popular dining and swimming spots.

The sheltered waterfront is lined with tavernas and cafés, with fishing boats moored alongside visiting yachts. It becomes busier during July and August, but still retains much of its traditional character.

Come for a late-afternoon swim, stay for dinner beside the water and watch the castle light up above the village.

Swim at Leros beaches.

Most Leros beaches are found in sheltered bays rather than along long, exposed stretches of coast. Many are a mixture of sand and pebbles, and water shoes can be useful.

• Alinda Beach is the longest and most developed beach on Leros. It has clear, generally calm water, tamarisk trees, sunbeds, water sports and plenty of nearby tavernas. It is convenient for families and visitors who prefer having everything close by.
• Panteli Beach is small but extremely popular due to its calm water and waterfront tavernas. It is best early in the morning, before the beach and surrounding restaurants fill up, and it can be quite lively at night.
• Vromolithos Beach, just beyond Panteli, is longer and usually quieter. It has views across to the small island of Agia Kyriaki and a mix of sand and pebbles.
• Dio Liskaria is a small cove north of Alinda with vivid blue water and a couple of lively beach bars. It attracts a younger crowd during summer and is one of the better choices for music and cocktails by the sea.
• Blefoutis Beach, in the north of the island, is sheltered and peaceful, with tamarisk trees and tavernas close to the water. It is a good option when beaches on the other side of the island are windy.
• Gourna Beach faces west and has darker sand and shallow water. It is particularly suitable for younger children, although the shallow seabed means you may need to walk some distance before the water becomes deep.
• Xirokampos Beach, in southern Leros, has calm water and views towards Kalymnos. The bay is excellent for swimming and snorkelling and is generally less busy than Alinda or Panteli.
• Agia Kioura Beach is a small, relatively isolated beach in the north. Combine a swim here with a visit to the nearby Church of Agia Kioura.

Like many islands, wind direction can make a significant difference on Leros, so ask a local which side of the island is most sheltered that day. If the famous Meltemi wind is blowing, then you will want to stay away from anywhere exposed to the North.

Visit the Bellinis Tower Museum

Bellinis Tower, also known as Beleni Tower, is a handsome stone mansion near Alinda.

It houses the Historical and Folklore Museum of Leros, with exhibits covering local customs, traditional clothing, household objects and different periods of the island’s history. The building also contains a library, an art space, and a press collection, while concerts and cultural events are sometimes held in its gardens during summer.

It is worth visiting before or after spending time at Alinda Beach.

Visit Agios Isidoros

The tiny Church of Agios Isidoros is one of the most photographed places on Leros.

It sits on a rocky islet near Kokkali and is connected to the shore by a narrow stone causeway. The church is particularly lovely in the late afternoon and is also a popular location for weddings.

There is not a great deal to do once you arrive, but the coastal setting makes it an easy and worthwhile stop while exploring the western side of the island.

See the Church of Agia Kioura

Agia Kioura, near Partheni, looks like a simple island chapel but has a remarkable modern history.

During Greece’s military dictatorship, political prisoners held on Leros painted a series of religious murals inside the church. The figures were reportedly inspired by fellow prisoners and residents, giving the paintings a distinctive human quality.

The murals are now protected works of cultural importance and make this one of the island’s most moving historic sites.

Visit Panagia Kavouradena

Near Xirokampos, the small Church of Panagia Kavouradena is built into the rocks directly above the sea.

According to local tradition, a fisherman searching for crabs discovered an icon of the Virgin Mary in a crack between the rocks. The chapel was later created at the site.

It is a beautiful, peaceful location and easy to combine with a swim or lunch in Xirokampos.

Go diving

Leros is considered one of Greece’s most interesting diving destinations due to the aircraft, ships and military remains found in the surrounding waters.

Local diving centres offer introductory dives, certification courses and guided trips for experienced divers. Some sites are accessible from the shore, while others require a boat.

The combination of clear water, rocky reefs and Second World War wrecks makes diving here quite different from the usual Greek island experience.

Take a boat trip

Small excursion boats and private charters operate around Leros and to nearby islands during summer.

Popular destinations include Lipsi, Arki and the small islets surrounding Leros. Boat trips are also an excellent way to reach isolated coves that are difficult or impossible to access by road.

Schedules and routes vary according to the season and weather, so check locally after arriving rather than planning around a particular excursion months in advance.

Go for dinner on Archangelos Island.

Just off the north coast of Leros lies the tiny islet of Archangelos, an uninhabited nature reserve known for its crystal-clear water, dramatic cliffs and the striking white Chapel of Archangel Michael.

Many excursions include time for swimming in the crystal-clear waters before stopping at Stigma, a much-loved waterfront taverna that has become a destination in its own right. With just a handful of tables perched above the sea, it’s renowned for its fresh seafood, traditional Greek dishes and unforgettable setting.

Archangelos is also a protected nature reserve and home to one of the Aegean’s largest breeding colonies of Eleonora’s Falcons, which nest on the island each summer. While parts of the island are protected during the breeding season, visitors can still admire its rugged beauty from the water.

Whether you come for the swimming, the spectacular scenery or a memorable meal at Stigma, a trip to Archangelos is one of the highlights of a visit to Leros.

Attend a local festival.

Leros hosts religious festivals, cultural events, concerts and food celebrations throughout summer.

Important events include the Feast of Agia Marina on 17 July, celebrations at the Castle of Panagia on 15 August, the Feast of Agios Fanourios in Xirokampos on 27 August and the Fisherman’s Festival in Panteli during September.

There are also wine, food and traditional music events held in different villages throughout July and August. Dates can change, so look for posters around the island or ask your accommodation host what is happening during your stay.

Image courtesy: Hydrovius Dive Centre

The Castle of Panteli

Leros War Museum

Leros war cemetery

Stigma Taverna, Archangelos Island

Suggested Leros Itinerary

Whether you’re visiting as part of a Dodecanese island-hopping adventure or enjoying a longer stay, Leros is easy to explore thanks to its compact size. Here’s how we’d spend one, three or five days on the island.

One Day in Leros

Start your morning in Agia Marina, strolling along the harbour before exploring the narrow streets of Platanos. Continue up to the Castle of Panteli and the nearby windmills for some of the island’s best views.

Head down to Panteli for a leisurely seafood lunch, then spend the afternoon swimming at Panteli or Vromolithos Beach. Finish the day with dinner by the waterfront as the sun sets over the harbour.

Three Days in Leros

With three days, you can experience the island’s highlights at a more relaxed pace.

Day One: Explore Agia Marina, Platanos, Panteli, the castle and windmills.

Day Two: Visit Lakki, the War Museum and Bellinis Tower, then relax at Alinda Beach before dinner in Agia Marina.

Day Three: Drive south to Xirokampos and Panagia Kavouradena, stopping for swims at some of the island’s quieter beaches along the way.

Five Days in Leros

Five days lets you experience the slower rhythm of island life.

Use the extra time to:

• Visit more secluded beaches such as Blefoutis, Gourna or Agia Kioura.
• Take a boat trip to nearby Lipsi or one of the surrounding islets.
• Go diving or snorkelling.
• Go over to Stigma Taverna for dinner on Archanegelos island.
• Walk some of the island’s coastal trails.
• Enjoy long lunches and relaxed evenings at different waterfront tavernas.

One of the joys of Leros is that there’s no need to rush. Leave plenty of time to simply wander, swim and soak up the authentic atmosphere that makes the island such a rewarding destination.

Dining in Leros

There are a number of really top-notch cafes and tavernas on Leros, but not as many as on some islands, so booking in summer may need to be done in advance.

Standouts are Pirofani in Panteli, Mylos by the Sea in Agia Marina and Serza near Lakki. 

There are several excellent places in Agia Marina for a cheap and cheerful meal or coffee. Navarone is very close to the port so a popular coffee spot before a ferry and it turns into a very lively bar and restaurant at night. 

Serza

Pirofani

Navarone

Frequently Asked Questions

Is Leros worth visiting?

Absolutely. Leros offers a wonderful mix of beautiful beaches, picturesque villages, fascinating history and excellent food, all without the crowds found on many of Greece’s more famous islands.

How many days do you need in Leros?

Three to five days is ideal. This gives you enough time to explore the island’s villages, relax on its beaches and take a boat trip or two.

Does Leros have an airport?

Yes. Leros Municipal Airport (LRS) has regular flights from Athens throughout the year, with more services operating during the summer months.

Do I need a car on Leros?

A hire car is recommended, especially if you want to explore the island’s quieter beaches and villages. However, if you’re staying in Alinda, Agia Marina or Panteli, it’s easy to get around by taxi or local bus for a few days.

What is the best area to stay in Leros?

For most visitors, Alinda is the best all-round choice thanks to its long beach, good range of accommodation and central location. Agia Marina is ideal if you enjoy staying in a lively harbour town, while Panteli is perfect for couples looking for a romantic waterfront setting.

What are the best beaches on Leros?

Some of the island’s most popular beaches include Alinda, Panteli, Vromolithos, Xirokampos, Blefoutis, Gourna and Dio Liskaria. Each offers something different, from organised beach clubs to peaceful coves ideal for snorkelling.

Can you island hop from Leros?

Yes. Leros is one of the best bases in the Dodecanese for island hopping, with regular ferry services to Patmos, Lipsi, Kalymnos, Kos, Agathonisi, Arki and Rhodes.

When is the best time to visit Leros?

May, June and September are generally considered the best months, offering warm weather, pleasant sea temperatures and fewer visitors than the peak summer season.

Is Leros suitable for families?

Yes. The island’s calm beaches, short driving distances and relaxed atmosphere make it an excellent destination for families with children of all ages.

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Milos is an incredible and quite unique island that has gained in popularity as word gets out about its amazing lunar landscapes, technicoloured beaches and delicious food scene. It’s a lot quieter than Santorini but there is still a lot to see and do and you would not be disappointed with several days or even a month on this island. It’s not small and you will need a car but driving is easy. Working out where to stay on Milos will be your biggest challenge but this should help you find the best accommodation on Milos for you.

 PLANNING A TRIP TO GREECE?

Whether you’ve been before or it’s your first time it can be hard to process all the information out there. Be sure to check out our complete Planning Guide as well as our FREE 13-page downloadable itinerary.

If you are feeling really overwhelmed you might like a Trip Consultation perhaps!?

And come join our private Facebook Group where you can ask questions and get advice from real travellers!

There are no big chain hotels or all-inclusive hotels on Milos. Rather it has a number of small family-run hotels and some incredibly unique accommodation like converted fishing huts.

Choosing your Milos hotel largely comes down to personal preference. Some people will prefer to stay near the port in Adamas which is also very central whilst others might prefer the more upmarket boutique feel of Pollonia or one of the tiny fishing or beach villages.

Either way, you really can’t go wrong – it’s all marvellous! 

Further reading : Things to do on Milos

Are you planning a last-minute trip to Milos?

Milos is certainly no longer a secret but luckily development is slow, making places to stay in Milos limited. Book early and don’t miss out, which many people do!

Top Tours in Milos

• Full daily sailing tour to Kleftiko with Lunch and Snorkeling (best-rated!)
• Geology and Volcano Half-Day tour
• Kayaking Tour to Tsigardo and Gerakas Beaches
• Half-Day Morning cruise to Kleftiko

Top Places to Stay in Milos

• Heliotropio Studios and Apartments – Pollonia
• Ostria Vento – Pollonia
• Captain Zeppos – Pollonia
• Delmar Suites – Pollonia
• Hotel Dionysis – Adamas
• Medousa – Adamas
• Arethousa – Plaka
• Psaravolada Hotel – Southern beaches
• Artemis Deluxe Rooms – Southern Beaches

The main towns of Milos

Adamas

Adamas is the main town of Milos and the port where the ferries and cruise ships dock, although it is not a substantial port.

You will find everything here that most port towns have – souvenir shops, backpacker hostels, cafes, tour desks, and more. It’s very central to everything on the island and has a good mix of cultural activities as well as some nightlife.

Being the port town Adamas is also where the majority of the boat cruises leave from especially the full day ones. There’s also an excellent kayaking tour and a Geology and Volcano tour that takes half a day.

recommended hotels in Adamas

Budget travellers will love Thalasittra Village Hotel with its lovely garden and close proximity to everything. A great mid-range hotel is  The White Suites which is again centrally located and means you don’t need a car for much of your stay. Some rooms have a jacuzzi and terrace too!

If you’re after a bit of luxury then Miland Suites is in the hills behind Adamas but have gorgeous suites with amazing views over the island. They have a great pool and put on an incredible breakfast with food grown on the property. 

Lagada Beach Hotel is a good choice for people who dont want to walk much nor tackle any stairs as it is right next to the town on the beach. 

For groups, there is a great apartment called White Rock which has 3 bedrooms, is beautifully appointed and an easy stroll to everything.

Lagada Beach Hotel

Plaka

Plaka is likely named after the historic district of Athens with the same name which has fairly ambiguous heritage still unclear today. It is the oldest part of Milos and up high in the hill behind Adamas where it was once more protected from pirates and other enemies.

Today it is a quaint village with the usual paved narrow alleyways filled with cafes, tavernas, and shops some of which have excellent arts and crafts including replica/souvenir ‘Venus de Milo’ after the famous statue which now lives in the Louvre.

There are amazing views to be had from several vantage points especially the Kastro ( castle) which is worth the steep, wobbly climb. Accommodation choices are limited but here you will experience a quite authentic stay that is very Greek and very Milonean. 

recommended hotels in Plaka 

For a very special and completely unique experience book Drougas Windmill , which has wonderful views from the terrace, especially at sunrise.

Halara Studios are also exceptional with beautifully appointed rooms and amenities and sweeping views over the sea. Chaido Rooms are a great budget option and are simple, clean and very affordable.

Pollonia

Pollonia is a charming seaside town at the very north-east tip of the island. It is full of small seafood restaurants, cafes and traditional tavernas as well as a good winery, a small fishing port, and the ferry that takes you over to neighbouring Kimolos island.

There are a number of small family-run hotels spread out along the bay and a couple of high-end boutique hotels. It is quite popular with European families due to the safe, calm beach and has a lively yet family-friendly atmosphere at night in summer.

Despite it being a fair way from many of the popular sites it is an easy drive in and out each day and quite close to iconic Sarakiniko.

You will also have to drive past the incredible pastry/bakery at the edge of town and I defy you not to go back for the chocolate pie every day. We spent 5 days in Pollonia on our last visit and would choose it for our next as well. It has a lively vibe at night but is a little more upmarket than Adamas which is popular with backpackers.

One of the best things you can do from Pollonia is a day tour to the neighbouring islands of Kimolos and Poliegos. You can either catch the passenger/car ferry over and explore Kimolos yourself or join a private boat tour and explore with a local.

Recommended hotels in Pollonia 

A great mid-range hotel is Delmar apartments and Suites which is located right at the end of the road into town across from the waterfront tavernas. Lovely hotel and perfect, central location.

A little further along the waterfront road is Unique Milos Suites where we stayed – their beachfront beanbags got a lot of use! or around the cove to the east is Captain Zeppos Apartments a gorgeous boutique hotel right on the water.

White Pebble Suites opened in 2021 and are a project launched by 3 Australian women who fell in love with Milos. Their seafront suites are stunning and are already considered some of the best on the island.

 Ostria Vento is a lovely budget option in a cute little bougainvillea festooned Cycladic house just 5 minutes walk from the centre of the village. 

Unique Milos Suites

White Pebble Suites

The fishing villages of Milos – Klima, Mandrakia and Firopotomas

One of the most endearing attractions on Milos is its quaint little fishing villages with their unique ‘Syrma’ or fisherman’s huts, most of which are still in use today.

These colourful structures serve as storage for the fisherman and easy access to the sea at ground level with his sleeping quarters up above.

Some of these huts are now available for rent and are some of the most unique places to stay in Greece!

The roads down to the villages are sealed but they are narrow so drive carefully. The road to Klima is especially tricky but there is a nice Taverna and carpark at the bottom as a reward. Klima has the most huts and is fairly protected from onshore winds.

You really can’t miss these villages when visiting Milos and staying at one is a very unique way to holiday.

Accommodation recommendations in the Milos fishing villages

Blue Sea House is one of our favourite Syrma and is at the end of the row in Klima. It can sleep 6 people in 4 beds and two sofa beds and is wonderfully appointed with great attention to detail.

Vasealis and Seaf  Syrma is also very cute and can sleep 4 with a King bed in the bedroom and a sofa bed in the living room. Its been recently refurbished and has lovely views from the terrace out over the sea.

In Mandrakia, SeaScape is a lovely little white house that sits above the Fishing Huts below and is right next door to the only taverna ( which is excellent), Medusa. Seashell is just a few meters away and can sleep 4. Book both and take over the village!

In Firopotamos Vilos Suites are right on the lovely, calm beach and are the most stylish in that bay. Only around 10 or 12 people stay in Firopotomas of a night, even in summer! 

Vilos Suites Firopotamos

Klima

Mandrakia

Sarakiniko Beach Hotels 

One of the most extraordinary beaches in Europe is found on Milos called Sarakiniko. It’s incredible white rock formations are often describe as ‘lunar’ or ‘other-worldy’ and it’s a very unique beach to visit.

There is not much sand at this beach and it is pretty exposed to the wind but it’s that wind that has formed the amazing rocks shapes over millions of years. This is somewhere you come to take photos and explore the caves rather than swim although that is possible as well.

It is located in an isolated spot on the northern part of the island, with nothing of interest close by so most people visit by car.

The public bus also stops on the road and it’s a 10-minute walk down to the beach.

If you do want to stay close by there are only a few options but they are both very good.

Recommended hotels for Sarakiniko Beach in Milos

Sarakiniko Rooms have comfy, clean, affordable rooms and most have great sea views.

For a luxury option check out Cave Suites Milos  – stunning suites with incredible views of the area and many rooms have private pools.

Sarakiniko Beach

Milos Southern Beaches

The best beaches on Milos are on the south of the island as they are generally protected from the wind, which can be particularly strong in summer. The beaches are also very distinctive and quite colourful with all the colours of the rainbow found in the volcanic cliffs and the pebbles.

There is a natural thermal spring at Paleochora which is a well-organized beach with many sunbeds and umbrellas for hire and several good tavernas up the top. There is a big car park and it is very easy to access.

Provatas is midway along the southern coast and is where some of the day cruise boats depart for Kleftiko. It is a bit more isolated and only a few tavernas but a very pretty spot.

Unless you plan on literally flopping and dropping you will need a car if staying at the southern beaches but you may not need one every day. There is also a public bus that services the busier spots.

Recommended hotels in the southern beaches of Milos

Psaravolada Hotel is a beautiful new small resort with suites and rooms looking over the sea. It has an excellent restaurant and is good value given its amenities.

Further along at Paliochori Artemis deluxe rooms is a stunning boutique hotel with luxe suites, some with private pools. It has a pool bar and beach bar and truly rivals anything you would find on Mykonos.

Artemis Deluxe Rooms

Whether you stay in a hotel in Milos, a windmill, traditional house or Fisherman’s Hut I guarantee you are in for a wonderful holiday. Get in quick before the crowds from Santorini decide to detour to this magnificent Cycladic Island and don’t forget the other gems in the area such as Paros and Naxos too!

Further reading: Unique places to stay in Greece

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Greek food is synonymous with delicious flavours and healthy living. Greeks are some of the oldest people in the world due to their diet and their penchant for lots of homegrown vegetables and not much meat. Learning about Greek food is not just fun but also a great way to introduce these delectable, and often easy, dishes at home especially if you learn how to cook some local dishes too. There are a number of excellent food tours and cooking classes in Greece and here we list our recommendations.

Cooking Classes in Naxos

We have done many Cooking Classes in Greece over the years, and cook Greek food ourselves at home several times a week. But of all the classes we have done, this one on Naxos is one of the best, and overall probably the best value experience too.

Basiliko 

Hidden among the green villages of the Potamia valley, Basiliko is a family-run farm, taverna and cooking experience that gives visitors a real taste of traditional life on Naxos. Rather than simply attending a cooking lesson, guests are welcomed into the family’s home and gardens, where they learn how local dishes are prepared using seasonal produce grown on the property and ingredients sourced from nearby farms.

The experience centres around authentic Naxian food, culture and hospitality. Visitors are guided through the gardens to collect vegetables and herbs before helping prepare classic island recipes, many of which have been handed down through generations.

Meals are then shared together around long communal tables with local wine, stories, music and the kind of relaxed atmosphere that feels more like a village gathering than a tourist activity.

Set in one of the island’s most fertile and scenic regions, Basiliko also offers insight into the agricultural traditions that continue to shape everyday life on Naxos.

The focus is on simplicity, fresh ingredients, and genuine connection, making it especially popular with travellers who want to experience the island beyond the beaches and resort towns.

Basiliko FAQs

What can I expect from the experience?
Guests explore the gardens, collect fresh ingredients, prepare traditional dishes and then sit down together to enjoy a long shared meal with drinks and local hospitality.

How long does the class last?
The experience generally lasts about 4 hours and is offered both during the day and in the late afternoon.

Do I need to know how to cook?
Not at all. The classes are designed for everyone, whether you’re an experienced cook or have never stepped into a kitchen.

What type of food is prepared?
The menu focuses on traditional Naxian and Greek recipes using seasonal vegetables, herbs, cheeses and locally sourced ingredients.

Can dietary requirements be accommodated?
Yes, vegetarian and vegan options can usually be catered for if arranged in advance.

Is it suitable for children?

Basilico is a very family-friendly place, and children of all ages are welcome.

Are drinks included?
Local wine, refreshments and other drinks are typically served alongside the meal.

Where is Basiliko located?
Basiliko is located in the village area of Mesi Potamia, in the greener inland region of Naxos.

Is transport provided?
Guests usually make their own way there, although transfers may sometimes be arranged separately.

What should I wear?
Comfortable clothing and sensible shoes are recommended, especially as part of the experience takes place outdoors in the gardens and village setting.

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Many people have realised that there is more to Greece than just Santorini and Mykonos. Naxos has become a perennial favourite in the past few years and is a great combination with Santorini, with easy connections. This Santorini, Naxos and Athens itinerary covers everything you need to make this trip a reality, including time frames, transport, activities, dining suggestions, and lots more!

PLANNING A TRIP TO GREECE?

Feeling overwhelmed? Be sure to check out our complete Planning Guide as well as our FREE 13-page downloadable itinerary.

You may even want to book a private session with me – I’ve helped almost 400 others this way!

And come join our private Facebook Group where you can ask questions and get advice from real travellers!

When to visit Greece 

The best times to visit Greece are April-June and September-October. The weather is mild and most places have few crowds. High season is late June to early September, and prices will reflect that as will the crowds, the number of cruise ships and accommodation availability.

Summer is still great, especially for beach time and in some of the lesser-known spots. The water is warm, there are blue skies every day and a fun holiday atmosphere. 

 Important travel essentials for Greece

Basic Facts about Greece

 Greece is actually known as Hellas, with its official name being the Hellenic Republic “Helliniki Dimokratia”. It covers 132,000 sq kilometres of land, including 227 inhabited islands. The population is just over 10 million people.

The religion is Eastern Orthodox ( Christian) , they drive on the right-hand side of the road, and the calling code is +30.

What to see and do in Greece

Greece has many incredible destinations and is considered home to some of the most beautiful and interesting sites in the world. There are 19 UNESCO World Heritage Sites with another 16 under consideration.

There are 6 island groups – the Cyclades, the Dodacannese, the Saronic islands, the Sporades Islands, the Northern Aegean islands, the Ionian Islands, and Crete, so island hopping in the Greek Islands might be popular but it does require some research, as most of these groups do not connect with each other by ferry or flights.

There are also some incredible things to see on the mainland including Athens – ancient sites like Delphi and Olympia as well as places of considerable natural beauty and wonder such as Meteora and Mt Athos. The northern city of Thessaloniki is also wonderful.

The Peloponnese peninsula is becoming more popular and is considered to be the ‘real Greece’.

How to get around the Greek Islands

The train and bus network is not as modern or efficient as those in, say, France or Italy, but the Ferry network is probably the most extensive and effective in the world.

In Athens taxi drivers, like many cities, can be a bit hit and miss so it pays to have the details of a trusted one. For private transfers, we use and recommend CATTaxi and if you use the Promo code “GTS” when you book through this link you will receive a further 10% off. If you do catch a taxi make sure the meter is on!

For port and ferry transfers you can book via this article too.

For Ferries, we use Ferryhopper and we invariably hire a car at each destination even if it’s just for a day or two.

Greek Culture

The Culture in Greece is rich and varied and is over 6000 years old.

There are a number of things that make it so unique, including the world-famous Greek Hospitality, but there’s also the unique architecture, food, dancing, music and more. The Greek Language is one of the oldest in the world, and it always pays to know a few key phrases for your trip.

We have a lot of resources including a whole page on the Greek Culture as well as a Recipe page, and an article full of reading suggestions, one with our recommended Greek Playlist and another about movies set in Greece as well.

If you’re a history buff, then be sure to check out this article on Greek Mythology and where to see the most amazing archeological sites.

Further reading: Frequently Asked Questions about Greece

Santorini-Naxos-Athens

This article focuses on an itinerary that ticks the most boxes for the most people, with these three destinations, and can usually be done between Easter and November.

Why this sequence?

We always recommend doing Athens at the end, if possible. This ensures you are back on the mainland well before your international flight home and allows for ferry or flight delays or cancellations. Athens is also best for shopping, so do it at the end and don’t lug everything around the islands.

We recommend Santorini  first as it is the furtherest and, as it has a modern international airport, there are more airlines servicing it and the planes are larger and less prone to delays.

Our recommended minimum duration would be:

Santorini – 3 days

Naxos – 3 ( 4 or 5 is better)

Athens – 3 nights (although you could spend a month or more)

Variations

Looking for famous beach clubs and parties? Swap out Naxos for Mykonos.

Looking for off-beat islands with no airports? Swap Santorini and Naxos for Sifnos and Folegandros.

Not interested in the beach but love culture? Go to Syros or Hydra.

Visiting in the off-season? (November to April): stick to the Mainland.

Further reading: Island Hopping in the Cyclades

Want to turn this itinerary into your trip?

Santorini

Ferry to Santorini – BOOK HERE

There are limited ferry connections between the western Cyclades, a topic undergoing constant discussion in Greece. The route between Milos and Santorini is typically serviced by Seajets and takes about two hours.  

Santorini is a bucket-list destination for most people, and for good reason.

Despite the cruise ships and the crowds, it remains one of those places that not only meets your expectations but probably exceeds them. The views truly are the stuff of legends, and it is little wonder it is so popular with honeymooners.

It can get a bit crazy when the cruise ships come in each day, so a room with a pool and terrace makes for a great escape for an afternoon siesta and sundowners. When you re-emerge for dinner, most of the tourists will have floated away!

There are a surprising number of things to do on Santorini with beaches, wineries, hot springs, great shopping, and some of the world’s most iconic and photographed sunsets. There are even a lot of great things for kids, too!

How to get to Santorini

You catch the ferry from Milos to Santorini. Book ferry tickets HERE.

TIP: Both the port and the airport can be quite nuts in summer, and there can be long waits for the cable car, taxis, and donkeys. Book your transfers and tours with Santo Luxury Escape with the promo code ‘GTS” for a 10% discount.

Where to stay in Santorini :

For couples: Ducato Di Oia ( adults only) suites in Oia or Above Blue Suites in Imerovigli for more isolation and at a lower price point.

For families and groups: White Harmony Suites have 2 bedroom suites, or Theoxenia Boutique Hotel has squad rooms and is not far from, dare I say it, Mcdonalds’.

Solo: Kivotos in Imerovigli for a splurge or Abelonas Retreat on a tight budget

Where to eat in Santorini

Breakfast: Breakfast should be included at your hotel. Otherwise, Our Corner in Fira and La Scala on Oia are great choices.

Lunch: enjoy lunch either at one of the wineries or at Aeolos Taverna in Akrotiri. If heading to Black Beach, enjoy lunch at Akro Beach Bar. Lefkes Taverna in Oia is also hard to beat for food or service and Metaxi Mas is one of the best tavernas in the entire country!

Dinner: Book a sunset dinner cruise on the Caldera or Santorini Mou in Oia, or Dimitris Ammoudi Taverna in Ammoudi Bay. Blu in Imerovigli is also wonderful for both lunch and dinner ( and they have a pool).

Drinks:  V Lounge Cafe & Cocktail Bar in Fira or Le Moustache Pool Lounge 

Things to do in Santorini

• a half-day tour of the island
• do the famous Fira to Oia Hike ( or vice-versa) or one of the other great hikes on Santorini
• Explore the maze of streets in Oia including Panagia Platsani Church
• walk down to Oia Castle and jostle with the crowds for those famous sunset photos
• visit fascinating Akrotiri – Greece’s ‘Pompeii’, and nearby Red Beach
• tour the world-renowned wineries with a sommelier
• visit authentic Pyrgos village and see what Santorini is like for locals
• See the amazing Lost Atlantis 9D experience. Especially popular with kids!
• swim at Black Beach, Red Beach, and Kamari Beaches
• attend a ‘traditional’ Greek wedding!
• have a professional photographic session done – hard to beat the backdrop!

   

   Further reading:
  

  Santorini vs Mykonos

  3 days in Santorini – a complete itinerary

  Winter in Santorini

Naxos

Ferry to Naxos- BOOK HERE

There are many connections between Santorini and Naxos, particularly in summer. The faster catamarans take around 90 minutes and the slower Blue Star ferry takes two hours. We always recommend the later which are bigger and more stable in bad weather. They are also less likely to cancel for this reason.

Naxos is the largest and greenest island in the Cyclades group. It is known for its excellent beaches, charming mountain villages and thriving agricultural industry which makes it a very different island to both Milos and Santorini.

Naxos has one main town, Chora, and many people see this as an advantage for the island as the port, airport, main town and good beaches are all close together. While it’s a great idea to hire a car to explore some of the more remote parts of the island it does mean that you can have a perfectly nice vacation without one too.

There is a lot to see and do and its proximity to several other beautiful islands makes it a firm favourite with families, couples, and solo travellers year after year. 

Being so big and with so much to do we recommend trying to stay on Naxos for as long as possible. A week is not unheard of and many people stay for months at a time.

Alyko Beach

Where to stay on Naxos

For first-timers we recommend staying in Chora, the main town of the island. This is also where the ferry port is and the airport is only a 10 minutes drive.

Chora is a charming and quite lively town with a Venetian Castle, the ‘Old Market’, and the famous Portara Gate on the headland. There are even a couple of nice beaches so it is possible to spend your entire time here, even without a car.

For a good mid-range hotel check out  Hotel Grotta or Nastasia Village, who have newly renovated rooms in a quiet spot a few streets back from the beach and the main part of town.

Families and groups should check out Ikaros Studios and Apartments which has a great pool but is only a short walk to this popular family beach.

Astir of Naxos is one of the most popular luxury hotels on the island and has a beautiful swimming pool and spa as well as a children’s playground. We also love Nissaki Beach Hotel which is right behind Agios Georgios Beach and has a beachfront restaurant and swimming pool, or Hotel Glaros Boutique Hotel which is right next door and less expensive.

Things to do in Naxos

• Cooking Classes
  • • 1. This class is conducted in a local home and includes dinner there too;
    • 2. This class is held at Basiliko Taverna Farm and is conducted by their excellent Chef and owners. It includes picking your own vegetables, meeting the farm animals, and dancing and plate smashing! Mention us for €5 discount person.
• Naxos is famous for its food and, in particular, its honey, cheese, and potatoes. In fact, the Naxos Potato Festival is held each year in July and they are currently world record holders! In the Chora, you will find numerous shops that showcase the local produce and, of course, you can sample all the delicacies of Tavernas across the island. Don’t miss the amazing Naxos Cheese Koufopoulos, where you can do a private cheese tasting with wine, in their cellar and Antamoma Cuisine Deli.

• Explore the mountain villages. Either pick up a car or catch the buses up into the mountains. There are almost a dozen villages you can see but with just one day stick with Filoti, Aperianthos, and Chalki, with a side trip to the Monastery at Moni if you have time.

• Hike to Mt Zas and the Cave of Zeus. Do this very early before the sun heats up.

Further reading: The Mountain Villages of Naxos

• Explore the beaches. Hopefully, you will also have time to explore some beaches, especially if it is summer. There are many to choose from and if you have a car you can easily visit several before or after the mountain villages.
• Drive down to the Cedar Forest of Alyko, not much of a forest these days but rather a large, sandy nature reserve with several beaches. Then drive north to Paralia Glifada, Kastraki, Orkos, Plaka, and Agia Anna before ending at Agios Prokopios, our personal favourite.

Further reading: The Best Beaches of Naxos

• Archaeology & Mythology – Temple of Demeter

• Do a day trip to another island. Paros is right next door and can be as quick as 30 minutes on the ferry. Mykonos to the north is only 40 minutes away.  You can explore the the ‘small Cyclades’ islands by public ferry (Ano Koufonisa then has little sea buses that go around the beaches) or on sailing trips

Where to eat on Naxos

In the mountain villages stop in Filoti for a coffee at Platano on the square, under the shady plane trees. In Apeiranthos there are some great choices for lunch including Taverna Platanos and ‘Ο Αμοργινός‘ ( O Amorginos) is excellent too.

Many visitors also love Rotonda. This is a large restaurant and bar high in the hills before Apeiranthos with sweeping views over the valley and out to sea.

In Chora head to Avaton 1739 for sunset drinks and you can stay for dinner, or perhaps head into one of the small, charming places in the Old Market like Lithos or Labyrinth.

Down near St.George Beach To Elliniko is worth queuing for a table as is Maro’s.

For some great live music, plate smashing, and dancing the Flamingo Bar is the place to be.

Athens

Fly or Ferry to Athens- BOOK HERE

This is really a personal choice. The costs will likely be similar but the ferry will take longer, which a lot of people enjoy. Again, book the Bluestar and perhaps upgrade to Business Class and enjoy a meal or a bottle of wine with great views. You can even book a cabin and have a nap and a shower!

Athens of course is the Capital of Greece and is one of the oldest cities in the world, having been occupied for around 5000 years.

Named after the fierce warrior Goddess Athina ( which is what it is called in Greek) the city  has a fascinating and colourful past.

There is a lot to do and see in Athens and the ancient centre is easy to get around and very walkable. Apart from the many things you can do in Athens including great shopping, incredible food, and all the ancient sites, there is also great nightlife with a plethora of bars, tavernas, and clubs to choose from.

There are a lot of new hotels and restaurants many with incredible rooftop views, especially of the Acropolis.  It’s surprisingly affordable compared to most European capitals and returns tremendous value for your dollar.

Where to stay in Athens

For couples: Zillers Hotel has only 10 rooms and amazing Acropolis views from some rooms and the lovely rooftop bar and restaurant and is right on Mitropolous dining street, or The Foundry Suites in Psiri are uber cool and was once an industrial foundry.

For families and groups:

Great hotels that have one and two bedrooms suites and apartments include Met34, Athens Ikon and The Gem Society. All are in excellent central locations and all include breakfast too!

Dionysus is a beautiful apartment right in the middle of Plaka. It has 3 bedrooms and can sleep 9 and it’s a great price too given the quality (one thing to note however is that it is not airconditioned).

Auntie’s Home in Plaka is a fantastic 2 bedroom/2 bathroom apartment with a huge terrace and amazing Acropolis views too. I can’t believe it’s so cheap, actually!

Solo: I love to stay at Ergon House when I’m on my own. It’s across from Zillers and part of the famous Ergon House food emporiums.

Where to eat in Athens

Breakfast : this will likely be included in your hotel tarrif. Otherwise the Brunch Factory does incredible meals for breakfast and lunch.

Lunch: Nikitas in Psiri for cheap and cheerful homecooked meals or Kostas for amazing Gyros.
Athinaikon in Monastaraki/Syntagma, or for something really special book Dinner in the Sky (book well in advance). Yiasemi in Plaka ( the much photographed steps) or Lithos Taverna in Psiri does my favourite Moussaka. Taverna Klimataria for live music and the best cabbage rolls in lemon sauce in town.

Drinks : Enjoy sunset drinks at the Grand Bretagne Rooftop bar

Things to do in Athens

• wander down Ermou Pedestrian Street
• Visit Syntagma Square and see Parliament House and the Changing of the Greek Presidential Guard – the Evzones
• stop by the Monastaraki flea market
• walk into the Athens Central Food Market
• Visit the Acropolis either as early or as late as possible. Read our Full Guide on how to do this and the Acropolis Museum.
• Visit the Acropolis Museum
• Catch the Red Hop on Hop off bus to visit various ancient sites and points of interest
• Stroll through the National Gardens and see the Temple of Zeus
• Take in an open air concert at the Odeon of Herodes Atticus
• Spend time before, during or instead of a concert in the lively area of Psiri including a visit to the colourful and very kooky Little Kook!

 Further Reading:

The Best Rooftop Restaurants in Athens

The Elite Presidential Guard

Private Drivers in Athens

Ready to turn this into your trip?

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Antiparos is a small island located just off the west coast of Paros. Antiparos Cave is the island’s most important natural attraction, and one of the oldest documented caves in Greece, with evidence of human activity stretching back thousands of years.

What is it

Antiparos Cave is the deepest vertical cave in Europe. It has a depth of around 85 metres, reached via a series of platforms and walkways, ending in a cavern filled with stalactites and stalagmites that took millions of years to form. 

The central feature is a massive limestone column, a stalagmite that geologists date to around 45 million years old, making it the oldest in Europe. 

The cave has played many roles throughout history. Ancient inhabitants used it as a shelter and ceremonial site and you can see inscriptions carved into the stone, including one attributed to Makedon, a companion of Alexander the Great. Lord Byron also left his moniker on a wall.

In the 1600s, a French ambassador decided to hold Christmas Mass inside the cave for hundreds of people, who are believed to have left the first graffiti inside.

The descent is steep, but the upper chamber is broad and relatively bright. As you descend, the formations become darker, and everything becomes more intricate and dramatic.

Huge stalactites hang like threads, heavy curtains of stone sweep across the walls, and thick columns rise from the floor. 

How to get to Antiparos Cave

Antiparos is connected to Paros by a short ferry ride from Pounda, running every 10 to 15 minutes between May and October. The crossing takes just 7 minutes and drops you right in Antiparos Town. From there, you can reach the cave by road, which is about 15 minutes south of Antiparos Town.

• Driving or hiring a scooter is the most straightforward approach. The road is sealed for most of the journey, signage is clear, and there’s a large parking area at the entrance.
• The local bus runs between Antiparos Town and the cave several times per day in summer, and stops right outside the entrance.

• Taxis are also an alternative, but you will need to pay for the driver to wait if you don’t want to catch the bus back.

• Tours there are some organised tours for Antiparos Cave from both Parikia, on Paros and in Antiparos Town.

Opening hours and admission price

Entry is inexpensive and includes access to the cave and the small whitewashed chapel of Agios Ioannis Spiliotis, located at the entrance.

Prices may change year to year, but the fee is quite modest.

In 2025, the admission prices to Antiparos Cave were:

Adults – €5

Over 65 – €2.50

Children 6 to 12 – €2.50

Under 6 – free

Groups of 15 or more – €4

Opening hours depend heavily on the season.

• May – October 10:00 am to 4:00 pm (last entry at 3:30pm)
• Winter: Frequently closed or open only on certain days.

What to expect

Most visitors spend around an hour visiting the cave.

The stairs are metal and well-maintained, but they do collect condensation, so wear shoes with a grip rather than sandals. The railings can also feel a little slimy from the moisture.

The temperature does drop as you get deeper, so a light jacket or cardigan is a good idea if you plan to stay long.

If you’re visiting during July or August, it pays to arrive early. The first hour of the day is quiet, the lighting is gentle, and you get to take in the space without dodging crowds. Afternoons tend to be busier, especially when buses arrive and tour groups arrive from Paros.

There are no night tours and no standard guided sessions unless arranged privately.

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Agios Nikolaos is one of the most picturesque towns in Crete, known for its beautiful lake, seaside promenade, and relaxed atmosphere. Located in the island’s east, it combines coastal charm with easy access to some of Crete’s most scenic drives and historic sites. Whether you’re visiting for a few days or basing yourself here for longer, there are plenty of things to do in and around Agios Nikolaos.

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When to visit Crete

May, June, September, and October are ideal times to visit for good weather, manageable crowds, and reasonable prices. If you prefer the lively summer vibe, July and August are great, but like most places, expect hotter weather, more tourists and higher prices.

Spring (April – June)

• Highlights: Mild weather, fewer tourists, spring flowers.
• Average Temperatures:
  • April: 16°C (61°F)
  • May: 19°C (66°F)
  • June: 23°C (73°F)

Summer (July – August)

• Highlights: Peak tourist season, ideal for beach activities, lively atmosphere.
• Average Temperatures:
  • July: 27°C (81°F)
  • August: 27°C (81°F)
  • Daytime highs can reach 30°C (86°F) or more.

Autumn (September – October)

• Highlights: Warm sea temperatures, quieter beaches, pleasant weather.
• Average Temperatures:
  • September: 25°C (77°F)
  • October: 20°C (68°F)

Winter (November – March)

• Highlights: Quiet and peaceful, good for cultural exploration but limited beach activities,
• Average Temperatures:
  • November: 17°C (63°F)
  • December-February: 14°C (57°F)
  • March: 15°C (59°F)

Where is Agios Nikolaos, and how do you get there?

Agios Nikolaos sits on the western shore of Mirabello Bay in eastern Crete, about an hour’s drive from Heraklion. 

How to get to Agios Nikolaos:

From Athens, you can travel to Rethymnon by plane or ferry.

Agios Nikolaos is around 62 kilometres east of Heraklion, the capital of Crete. The drive takes about an hour via the main northern coastal highway.

There’s no airport in Agios Nikolaos, so most visitors fly into Heraklion International Airport (HER) and either hire a car or take a bus from the main KTEL terminal next to the airport.

Buses run several times a day between Heraklion and Agios Nikolaos, continuing east toward Ierapetra and Sitia. If you’re coming from Chania, it’s roughly a three-hour drive across the island.

What makes it special?

The town’s centre wraps around Lake Voulismeni, a striking, almost circular lake connected to the sea by a short canal. According to local legend, the goddess Athena once bathed here. Today it’s surrounded by cafés and tavernas and forms the heart of local life.

Unlike larger Cretan cities, Agios Nikolaos feels intimate and walkable, with everything close to the waterfront. It’s also an excellent base for exploring the region of Lasithi, known for its mountain villages, archaeological sites, and relaxed beaches.

It is the perfect base to explore Eastern Crete which is not as busy as Western Crete and Chania in particular. There are many luxury hotels to the north, in and around Elounda, yet the town itself feels very local and authentic.

Things to do in Agios Nikolaos 

Visit Lake Voulismeni

The town’s central lake is its most recognisable feature. It’s a small, deep body of water framed by cliffs on one side and cafés on the other. You can walk right around it, stop for coffee, or dine at one of the many lakefront tavernas in the evening.

At night, the reflections of the lights across the water make this one of the most photogenic spots in Crete.

Explore the Marina and Harbourfront

From the lake, it’s an easy stroll to the harbour and marina. Fishing boats and small yachts line the waterfront, and you’ll find several relaxed bars and seafood restaurants. It’s also where many of the daily cruise boats depart for Spinalonga Island or nearby coves.

Relax on the Beaches

There are several good beaches within walking distance of the town centre:

• Ammos Beach – a small, sandy beach close to the marina, ideal for a quick swim.

• Kitroplatia Beach – located in the heart of town with tavernas nearby.

• Almyros Beach – a larger beach about 15 minutes on foot from the centre, set beside a small river and surrounded by tamarisk trees.

For quieter options, drive east along the coast to Ammoudara or further south to Voulisma Beach near Istron, one of the most beautiful beaches in eastern Crete.

Take a Boat Trip to Spinalonga Island

Spinalonga is one of Crete’s most famous landmarks, a former Venetian fortress that later became a leper colony. Boats depart regularly from nearby Elounda or Plaka, both about a 15–20 minute drive north of Agios Nikolaos.

A visit here offers insight into Crete’s layered history as well as striking views over Mirabello Bay. Allow half a day for the trip.

Further reading: A Complete Guide to Spinalonga

Visit Nearby Villages

Several traditional villages surround Agios Nikolaos and make excellent short trips:

• Kritsa – one of Crete’s oldest and most picturesque mountain villages, known for its narrow streets, local craft shops, and nearby Byzantine church of Panagia Kera.

• Elounda – a seaside village north of town, home to some of Crete’s most luxurious resorts.

• Plaka – just past Elounda, this small, charming village is the closest to Spinalonga 

• Sissi – a small harbour village to the west, perfect for a quiet lunch by the sea.

Archaeological Museum of Agios Nikolaos

This small but well-curated museum holds artefacts from eastern Crete, including items from Minoan and early Greek settlements. It’s an ideal stop for history enthusiasts, especially before or after visiting sites like Lato, an ancient Dorian city located a short drive inland.

Paralia Kitroplatia

Day Trips from Agios Nikolaos

Agios Nikolaos is perfectly located for exploring the eastern part of Crete:

Elounda and Plaka – for coastal scenery and easy access to Spinalonga.

Lasithi Plateau – a fertile plain dotted with windmills and small villages.

Vai Beach – the famous palm forest beach near Sitia, about two hours east.

Voulisma Beach – Macrame Beach Club

Knossos and Heraklion – if you haven’t already explored Crete’s capital and Minoan palace.

Hike the Richtis Gorge – About 40 minutes east of town lies Richtis Gorge, one of Crete’s most scenic walking trails.

Knossos Palace

Where to stay in Agios Nikolaos

There’s a wide range of accommodation from simple guesthouses to luxury resorts.

In town, options like Minos Palace Hotel & Suites, Minos Beach Art Hotel, and the newly renovated and branded  Intercontinental offer modern comfort and beach access within walking distance of cafés and restaurants.

If you want to stay somewhere small and right in the heart of town, on the lake or harbour, then Lato Luxury Suites have affordable, self-contained rooms with great views, or Casa Porto Boutique Hotel is just along the harbourfront and has a great rooftop bar too.

A lot of people also like to stay up the road at Elounda which is renowned for its luxury hotels and excellent restaurants. Check out Elounda Beach Hotel, Elounda Gulf Villas, or Blue Palace Elounda, all within a short drive and ideal for combining relaxation with day trips into town.

Interncontinental Crete

Luxury Suites by Lato

Where to Eat and Drink

Agios Nikolaos has an excellent food scene with plenty of waterfront dining.

Overall, we find the quality here to be very high and cheaper than in Chania or even Rethymnon. Try local specialities such as dakos, stifado, grilled octopus, and the region’s own Cretan wine and raki.

• Around the lake you’ll find tavernas serving fresh seafood and local Cretan dishes. A standout is Karnagio who also have a Gyros shop across the street.

• For a casual lunch, head to the marina or beachside cafés at Kitroplatia or Almyros. A lot of people love Mistral at Kitroplatia but we found Faros and Archontiko to be just as good and not as busy.

• For dinner Almiriki at the end of Ammos Beach is excellent but you must book in advance in summer. There are several excellent gems in the back streets too such as Yiasemi and Se-Meli.

• In nearby Elounda, several fine-dining restaurants feature creative Mediterranean menus with views across the bay. Despina’s is a favourite of many locals.

Yiasemi

How long to stay?

Like the other main cities of Crete – Chania, Rethymnon and Heraklion, Agios Nikaloas can easily use 3 days and really, given the number of days trips you can do if using it as a base, 5 would not be unreasonable.

Suggested itineraries for Rethymnon

3-Night Itinerary for Agios Nikolaos

Day 1

• Morning: Explore Lake Voulismeni and the marina area.

• Midday: Relax on Ammos or Kitroplatia Beach.

• Afternoon: Visit the Archaeological Museum and nearby churches.

• Evening: Dinner by the lake or along the harbourfront.

Day 2

• Morning: Drive to Elounda or Plaka and take the boat to Spinalonga Island.

• Afternoon: Lunch in Plaka, followed by a short swim or stroll through Elounda village.

• Evening: Return to Agios Nikolaos for a relaxed drink by the water.

Day 3

• Morning: Drive to Kritsa and visit the Panagia Kera church.

• Midday: Continue to the Lasithi Plateau or hike the Richtis Gorge if you prefer nature.

• Afternoon: Stop at Voulisma Beach for a swim on your way back.

• Evening: Dinner in town, watching the sunset over Mirabello Bay.

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Fodele is a beautiful village tucked into the northern coast of Crete, that is where the famous artist El Greco was from.

It’s surrounded by green hills, orange groves, and olive trees, sitting peacefully in a fertile valley that feels a world away from the bustle of the highway above. Only minutes off the main highway yet overlooked by most, this is a detour worth making a little time for.

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Where is Fodele?

Fodele is located about half an hour west of Heraklion and roughly an hour east of Rethymno.

The village itself sits slightly inland, around 50 to 60 metres above sea level, where a small stream winds its way through shady plane trees and stone houses.

It is well signed from the main highway and easy to find with the turn off opposite Paralia Fodele beach, into the lush valley – it’s a lovely part of the island, and often overlooked.

What is it famous for?

Fodele has a reputation that far outweighs its size, and its all about its most famous resident – actually one of the most famous to come out of Greece!

The village was the birthplace of Domenikos Theotokopoulos, better known as El Greco — the Cretan-born painter who became one of the greatest figures of the Spanish Renaissance. 

You can visit a small museum housed in what’s believed to be his family home, where you’ll find reproductions of his most famous works and a good sense of his connection to Crete.

Aside from its artistic heritage, Fodele is also known for its citrus orchards. The fertile soil and fresh water from the nearby hills produce some of the juiciest oranges and mandarins on the island. When the trees are in bloom, the scent alone makes a visit worthwhile. The local economy still revolves around agriculture, and you’ll often see crates of oranges being sold at roadside stalls or in tavern courtyards.

The village is also known for its lush, shaded riverbanks, where the Pantomantris River runs beneath a canopy of tall plane trees — a rare sight on such a sun-baked island. Combined with its slow rhythm and friendly locals, Fodele feels like a pocket of old Crete that’s managed to stay authentic while welcoming visitors.

There’s also a touch of ancient history hidden in its soil. Archaeologists believe that nearby Fodele Bay may once have been the harbour of Astali, the port of the ancient city of Axos. You won’t find major ruins, but knowing this background adds another layer to the area’s long and fascinating story.

What is there to do in Fodele?

Fodele is small enough to explore on foot, yet rich enough to keep you busy for a day or two.

• Start with the El Greco Museum, just outside the village centre. The building itself is charmingly simple, and while the artworks are reproductions, the exhibition gives real insight into El Greco’s life before he left Crete for Venice and then Spain. Art lovers will enjoy the connection to a world-famous painter in such a humble setting.
• Byzantine Church of the Panagia, built between the 11th and 14th centuries over the remains of an early Christian basilica. Its stone walls and fading frescoes are a reminder of how long people have worshipped in this valley.
• If you have a car, drive a little further into the hills to visit the Monastery of Agios Panteleimon, a 16th-century complex that once served as both a refuge and a fortress. The views from up there stretch across the valley to the sea.
• Walking Trails – you can follow the river through the orange groves, stop for lunch beside the water, or take one of the marked paths that lead into the hills. In spring, the valley bursts with wildflowers, and in summer, the shade along the river makes it one of the coolest spots in Crete — literally and figuratively.
• Hiking – look for the Fodele Gorge (Santorinios Gorge), a rugged route lined with rocks, fig trees and, after heavy rain, a few small waterfalls. It’s not a touristy path, so wear good shoes and bring water, but it’s a rewarding adventure.
• Paralia Fodele – this is the beach on the coast. It is long and mostly sandy, with a few pebbly sections. One end is organised with sunbeds and umbrellas and a couple of (very good) tavernas, while the other stays more natural and relaxed. The water here is clean and usually calm, perfect for swimming, kayaking, or just lazing the day away.
• Fodele Beach & Water Park Holiday Resort – located right on Paralia Fodele this is a sprawling all-inclusive property that’s popular with families. It has everything from pools and water slides to spa facilities, several restaurants, and easy beachfront access. This is one of the better AI options in Crete as it isnt sharing the bay or the beach with many other big resorts and masses of people.
• Psiloritis UNESCO Global Geopark – stretches across much of central Crete. This vast protected area covers ancient rock formations, gorges, caves and fossil sites that tell the story of how Crete rose from the sea millions of years ago.
• Fodele Village – there are several tavernas that serve excellent Cretan food, often under the shade of the plane trees or beside the lush creek, full of frogs, ducks and Geese. Look for dishes like slow-cooked lamb, fresh salads with local olive oil, and desserts made with orange syrup or honey. Pair it with a glass of raki or local wine and you’ve got a meal worth lingering over.
• Souvenir Street – a handful of small craft and souvenir shops selling handmade pottery, woven textiles, and natural products like orange-blossom soap and olive oil. These are genuine local businesses, not the mass-produced kind you’ll find in resort towns. The lacework is exquisite.
• The festival of Agios Panteleimon on the 27th of July. There’s live music, traditional dancing, and enough grilled meat and wine to feed half of Crete. It’s a great time to see how locals celebrate — with warmth, laughter, and a few late nights.

Where to stay in Fodele

There are no hotels in Fodele itself. It’s a sleepy village that probably wouldn’t see any tourists at all if it weren’t for El Greco, and thankfully, it hasn’t​ yet justified the opening of tourist accommodation. There are a few traditional rooms and small villas scattered across the region, though.

You can stay at the aforementioned all-inclusive Fodele Beach & Water Park Resort, right on the beach —​a great option if you have kids.

If you would prefer no kids at all, Castello Infinity Suites in nearby Agia Pelagia is a lovely option, and there are many beautiful beaches to explore on the 30-minute ​drive.

Fodele Beach & Water Park resort

Castello Infinity Suites

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